Best shows from New York Men's Fashion Week SS18: Boss, Carlos Campos and N.Hoolywood
BOSS MENSWEAR: CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF RAIN
The collection: Air, sea foam and the ocean breeze all served as inspiration for Hugo Boss's latest menswear collection, although the weather forecast at Boss' beach was all but sunny. No, his seaside reverie wore an overcast. Temperatures were dropping, adding to its quiet romanticism; the palette of whites, soft blues and light grays set the tone. With regards to shapes, Boss' nautical nods were in restraint. Classic pleated pants (looks 4 and 5), breezy nylon jackets (looks 14 and 27) and blazers with white embroidery (look 22) came out alongside a powerful tan jumpsuit (look 3) and roomy trench coats stretching down to the floor (looks 18 and 19). References to the water were also present in smaller details, with everything from roped knots to telescope keychains and geographical references printed on a clutch (look 22) present and accounted for.
The set: The illusion of rolling waves was created using a full-length mirror as runway, with the reflections of the window pane and models cast on its surface as the latter walked down the hall.
Try this now: The seafaring scarves gracing the necks the models can easily be recreated post-show.
CARLOS CAMPOS: BUT A SPLASH
Born to a tailor in Honduras, designer Carlos Campos can always be relied upon to show up with his signature touch of Latin American flair. This season, Campos presented a bright-yet-minimalistic colour palette — vivid red popped against beige; iris elevated the monochrome and hints of metallic — played out across rompers (looks 3, 8 and 12), trenches (looks 10 and 13), and three-button suits (looks 1 and 28). Aside from the distinct colour play, the collection brought back several of Campos' sartorial signatures, namingly geometric prints (looks 2, 9 and 12) and vertical pleats (looks 15, 19 and 20) typical of Latin cubavera shirts.
Buro loves: The beige industrial-style romper (look 12) for both genders. It's the season to colour outside the lines.
Something you might have missed: Just as menswear have permeated the women's shows, Campos' collection featured a few women's pieces, including a boatneck navy dress (look 11) and romper with triangles in contrasting colours (look 8).
N.HOOLYWOOD: ALPHI PHI OBANA
The collection: In seasons past, designers haven't shied away from political statements. While others all but spell out their affiliations in dyes, Japanese designer Daisuke Obana's reference to the affairs of the state was of a different brand. In his latest N.Hoolywood menswear collection, he took a page out of the JFK period in American history. See: The oversize suits (looks 1, 3 and 4), varsity sweaters (looks 6 and 8), and old man plaid (looks 33, 35 and 37). The old married the new in looks utilising legacy hues over updated tailoring — gray and beige painted the loosened silhouettes combining leather and wool (look 2) while details such as oversized leather pockets (look 23) and t-shirts were lent fratboy prints (look 21). Obana's leitmotif gave the buttoned-up prep a modern kick, with each outfit simultaneously fitting in an hitting out of the park. Very 2017.
Buro loves: The tortoise wayfarer sunglasses John F. Kennedy would approve of (look 18 and 20) and the return of the we-mean-business silk striped ties (look 1, 29 and 38).
Try this now: Put your practice of precise tailoring on the backburner. We have the mauve summer suit with contrast panelling on our shopping list (look 26).
All coverage of men's fashion week spring 2018.