Best shows from LFW SS18 Day 4: Christopher Kane, Erdem and Roksanda
London Fashion Week
CHRISTOPHER KANE: SARTORIAL SUBURBIA
The collection: Fetishes are no stranger to fashion — we've seen it manifest in the form of high-shine textiles like vinyl and latex just last season. But Christopher Kane opted for a more explicit way to represent the unseen side of kink culture, with tees featuring provocative images of girls in lingerie. Motifs of domestic life were borrowed and glamourised — lace resembled laundry bags (look 17); clothing pegs were still attached to the seams (look 28, 41); and not to mention, the return of his collaboration with Crocs, which saw the infamous clogs decked out in rhinestones. As niche as this collection was, Kane still managed to fit every emerging Spring trend in this collection: Excessive shimmer, grey checks, and elevated rainwear.
Buro loves: That patent coat with doily cuffs and Peter Pan collar (look 3). This is statement outerwear personified.
Favourite look: The cold-shoulder cardigan layered over a slinky lace number (look 40). Who knew boudoir meets preppy would make for such a striking ensemble?
ERDEM: REGAL REBEL
The inspiration: Having spent his summer studying Queen Elizabeth II's style archives in the Windsor Castle, Erdem Moralıoğlu was inspired by the tradition and romanticism of historical couture.
The collection: Opening with an emerald brocade coat, Erdem set the tone for the rest of the collection. When it comes to Erdem, it's a constant task to remind ourselves we're not at Couture Week — especially with those argyle cardigans and jacquard gowns. And as if tweed wasn't posh enough, Moralıoğlu manages to manipulate them into streamlined ensembles that straddle the line between effortless and calculated. In any case, this was a collection fit for royalty.
Try this now: Throw your preconceived rules on proportion out the window by pairing your structured blazer with a mini that barely skims the thigh. Vamp up the look by slipping on some sheer socks with any pair of luxe velvet flats (look 18).
ROKSANDA: EARTHY ELEGANCE
The set: Former architecture student Roksanda Ilincic chose to show her SS18 collection in the innovatively-built Serpentine Pavilion.
The inspiration: Architectural influence comes as no surprise with Roksanda — this season it was all about drawing aesthetic inspiration from Russian Constructivism.
The collection: It was back to the classics for Roksanda this season — the runway saw poplin blouses, silk shirts and tiered ruffled dresses in neutral shades of camel, ivory and navy. But as with every Roksanda offering, Ilincic punctuated the show with head-turning hues of fuchsia, yellow and bright scarlet. The homerun for this collection, however, was the universally flattering silhouettes — from cinched waists to elongating illusions, this is spring dressing done to a tee.
Catch up on all coverage from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2018.