Best shows from LFW FW17 Day 1: Molly Goddard, House of Holland, Versus Versace, J.W. Anderson and Simone Rocha

Best shows from LFW FW17 Day 1: Molly Goddard, House of Holland, Versus Versace, J.W. Anderson and Simone Rocha

London Fashion Week

Text: Weiqi Yap

Molly Goddard hosts an ethereal dinner party, House of Holland rallies up the crowd, Versus Versace dialled up the attitude, J.W. Anderson takes a ladylike turn, and Simone Rocha alludes to optimistic direction

The set: Occupying The Tanks at the Tate Modern, the Molly Goddard show turned what was once an industrial space into an ethereal dinner party straight out of a fairytale. Table setups were nothing short of elaborate — complete with floral arrangements and wine for the models.

The collection:
Trust Molly Goddard to deliver a collection that only dreams are made of. The whimsical whiz yet again channelled the allure of poignant nostalgia through borderline childlike silhouettes and Goddard's signature — tulle. Inspired by how women engage with style at different stages in life, this collection paid homage to the transformative power of dress. From tutus in look-at-me hues (looks 7, 13, 14 & 23) to more sensible ensembles (looks 9, 15, 18, 21, 25 & 30), the lineup ran the gamut of styles — a clear rejection of age-assigned attire.

Try this now:
Need to update your go-to party ensemble? Go classic Molly and swap out your going-out top with an OTT sheer midi dress for more attitude (look 27).

The set: A quirky installation of giant sculptures that each alluded to the theme of the night — racing.

The collection:
Racing chic meets bubble gum prep was the message of Henry Holland's fall/winter 2017 instalment. Holland mixed in a riot of texture and pattern into a saccharine palette of pastels. Think: Checkerboard checks (looks 1, 3, 4, 7, 20, 31, 32 & 33), Guipure lace (looks 19, 26, 28, 29 & 30), printed satin (looks 5, 19 & 23), mohair knits (looks 7 & 20) and Mongolian long-hair shearling (looks 13, 14, 23 & 27). The show also featured the debut of the label's Woody Woodpecker 15-piece capsule collection, where its animated motifs added to the energy of the show.

The soundtrack:
Undeniably one of the most upbeat shows of the day, the soundtrack had a huge part to play — the audience was jamming along to beats by the likes of Nicki Minaj and MIA.

The set: Strobe lights were strong in this one — the atmosphere was reminiscent of an underground club, particularly with the use of dim lighting and occasional smoke machines.

The collection:
With the Hadid sisters opening and closing the show, it's clear the label is preserving its cool kid rap. The clothes were in tandem with the energy, with the promise of luxe leather ensembles (looks 6, 7 & 8) and athletic accents. Streamlined knits rendered in muted burgundy (looks 12, 14, 20 & 22) were spotted alongside oversized outerwear (looks 11, 13, 19 & 45). Sheer detailing (looks 42, 44 & 47) and occasional pops of fluorescent (looks 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 & 38) made for club-friendly get-ups.

Favourite look:
The navy zip-up midi rendered in technical textile (look 25), punctuated with a statement zipper. Paired with heavy eye makeup, we're getting serious Bowie vibes.

The collection: Jonathan Anderson has put forth yet another collection for the books — this time, dubbed "uber feminine" — with trousers making only a single appearance throughout the show. Details were exceptionally ladylike too, with ostrich-feather trims (looks 3, 15 & 26) and scarlet floral prints (looks 11, 15, 17 & 29). Leather jackets were cropped right beneath the lapels (looks 3, 12 & 16), making for an unexpected take on the bolero cut. Lengths varied from mini to midi to maxi, but subscribed to tactful draping across the board. If there's one thing Anderson excels in, it's definitely dressing the female form.

Worth the investment:
That shearling-lined matching set (look 10) allows for a myriad of looks with its beautifully neutral palette. Plus, its asymmetric form guarantees that heads will turn.

I spy:
A recurrent use of that striking violet hue (look 24) from NYFW — could purple be the new black?

The collection: Starting off relatively muted in shades of olive and caviar, the line-up took a quick turn as Rocha introduced floral motifs on semi-sheer outerwear — almost evocative of the much needed optimism in our current climate. Embroidered collars (looks 20, 23, 25 & 26), appliquéd poppies (looks 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 29, 30 & 32) and see-through overlays (looks 36, 38 & 39) added a certain quirk to an otherwise moody collection.

Buro loves:
Those fur slides paired with glitter appliquéd socks (looks 20 & 23). So unexpected, yet makes total sense.

Something you might have missed:
The diverse casting — the line-up consisted of models of all ages, proving style has nothing to do with age.