Fashion

Dior cruise 2022 was a Greek-inspired collection of Olympic proportions

Of peplos, tunics and a swan dress

Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri brought the Olympics back to Athens.

The Summer Olympic Games is not until July but Chiuri staged the Dior cruise 2022 show as though it was a teaser to the main event. The Panathenaic Stadium — it’s more like an arena, if you ask us — set the mood for the entire runway show and the collection. Save for the audience at just one turn of the stadium, the space was left empty and there was definitely a sense of grandeur and one could feel expanse of the historic space. The City of Athens Symphony Orchestra, together with singer Ionna Gika, provided the soundtrack to the show and like the opening ceremony of the Games, the cruise 2022 show ended with a flurry of fireworks.

It was sporty all around.

It made perfect sense for the collection to be Chiuri’s interpretation of combining sportswear influences with that of Dior’s renowned couture techniques. Athens is after all the birthplace of sports as we know it. But with everything that Chiuri has designed for the fashion house thus far, the sportswear elements were tropes that we were already familiar with and done in ways that were relatable. Sneakers were worn with everything from the collection’s assortment of gowns to athleisure-imbued separates. And when they were not, boots took on an almost gladiator feel with armour-like details, plush leather Cannage motifs, and toe caps resembling that of typical sports shoes. There were little instances where the creations seemed precious because overall, the collection felt like one that’s meant to be played around in.

From the peplos to beautifully draped details, it was an assemblage of Greek dress.

No Greek-inspired collection would be complete without multiple iterations of the peplos and its accompanying details. Here, Chiuri explored the quintessentially Greek dress — it’s not a toga which is more Roman in origin, FYI — and manipulated the silhouette to match with her idea of sportswear. In the collection’s opening look, it’s adorned with drawstrings that not only transformed the formality of the original to something sportier and slightly more casual, but also replicated the draped qualities of a typical peplos. More literal interpretations included a litany of dresses that were done in Chiuri’s favoured sheer sensuality and topped off with a chic metallic belt.

Greek art seen through the lens of an Italian artist.

Artist Pietro Ruffo made sketches of intertwining bodies of wrestlers that were then translated onto the cruise 2022 collection’s athleisure-leaning pieces. The sketches were based off of the late Greek gallerist Alexander Iolas’s collection of vases and helped to provide some graphic nuances to the entire collection.

There was a swan dress.

Specifically, there was Bjork’s swan dress that was part of the collection. The Dior cruise 2022 collection ended with a very familiar-looking dress that was first seen on the Icelandic singer at the 73rd Academy Awards in 2001. But what was a reimagining of the iconic dress doing in a Greek-inspired collection, you ask? Well, the original was designed by Marjan Pejoski who was born in Northern Macedonia — a part of Greece. It seemed like a stretch and perhaps out of place with the rest of the collection. But we’re guessing that Chiuri just wanted to pay homage to an icon, especially when she had already included all that we could have expected from a Greek-inspired collection.