SGFW 2016: Best in beauty
Singapore Fashion Week 2016 was all about Asian-inspired fashion, but when it came to beauty, it seems little reference was taken from traditional Asian beauty looks — we didn't spot any bright, red lipstick or super heavy kohl liner on the eyes. Instead what we got, was a lot of luminous, translucent skin — not a surprise since the makeup was done by Nars which is known for its bounty of base products — and very subtle touches.
Said Jane Richardson, the lead makeup artist on several of the shows including Guo Pei, Naeem Khan and Self-Portrait. "Even in New York and other fashion weeks, we work a lot with the no-makeup makeup look — making the models look like better versions of themselves. And that really is pulling back on the makeup. It's all in the right products and the application. I can make the heaviest coverage foundation look like a very natural one. We generally use our fingers at Nars — so you do get a much lighter finish." From the white underliner at Guo Pei to the glowing skin at Naeem Khan to the super modern, reverse smoky eyes at Ong Shunmugam, here were the highlights for us.
At the opening show by China's Guo Pei, we spotted a key trend that Buro previously identified: white liner. Nars' Jane Richardson said "We've just put light onto the skin — we are simply using moisturiser and concealer only where it is needed. By keeping the models' skin just like theirs, it makes it much more youthful. We're focusing on the eyes by bringing light onto the eyelids with the Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow and we're mixing it with gold on the inner corner of the eyes, and then finishing off with an intense, bold, white line underneath."
Even the blusher was applied with powder for that natural, pinch-your-cheeks effect. The idea was for a no-makeup look so that the models' youthfulness could be highlighted. Richardson also prepped the models' skin with Nars skincare. For the lips, she mixed two of the Velvet Lip Glides for a more multi-dimensional, lip-like effect and patted it down.
Key products: Nars Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Santa Monica Boulevard, Dual-Intensity Eyeshadow in Rigel, Eyeshadow in Goldfinger and Velvet Lip Glides in Unlaced and Playpen.
To celebrate the designer's iconic cheongsams, models were all decked out in structured, Chinois-style bobs. The focus for the makeup look was solely on the eyes. But this time, the smoky eye was done on the lower lashline and swept over the socket area of the eyelids, with the intensity that was slowly built up. To make the lids pop, a clear lip gloss was patted on the eyelids for a tiny amount of shine and to balance out the smokiness.
In keeping with the minimalist trend that many of the designers seemed to opt for, the skin was kept soft and natural, with the Velvet Matte Skin Tint as the foundation, dusted over with the Soft Velvet Loose Powder for a soft-focus effect. The cheeks were also bare with just a touch of contour blush, while the lips were painted with the dusky pink, lip pencil in Dolce Vita.
Key products: Velvet Matte Skin Tint, Velvet Eyeliner in Last Frontier, Eyeshadows in Bali and Bengali, Lip Gloss in Triple X and Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Dolce Vita.
It was all about beautiful, glowing skin at the Naeem Khan show. Even the model's nails, were decked out in a sheer, nude nail polish in Ithaque. Said Richardson, "We used a lot of the iconic Nars Multiple Sticks. I've used Copacabana and South Beach just to round the side of the face and bring out the natural lines. We used the Soft Matte Concealer, so it was not overly shiny, and before they hit the runway, we powdered each model, just where the light would hit, so it would look more natural."
Another trick that Richardson did, was using cotton buds to remove foundation that covered natural freckles, to bring them back out, so the complexion would look more skin-like. The look also used a multiple use lipstick used on the eyes — for a slightly peachy, glossy lid — lips and cheeks. The colour in questions? The glossy Honolulu Hawaii, that was one of the original 12 lipsticks that François Nars created back in 1994 for Barneys New York.
Key products: Luminous Moisture Cream Soft Matte Complete Concealer (a new product), The Multiples in South Beach and Copacabana and Lipstick in Honolulu Honey.
Reinventing the artlessly undone look with a raw freshness is Self-Portrait on the last day of SGFW. Models were seen sporting natural skin with a flush across the cheeks and nose bridge, and eyes in a wash of orangey-yellow over the lids with the intensity focused on the under eye area.
As Richardson aptly puts it: "It's quite feral; as if they've been out in the wild." She first starts by mixing the Altai Matte Multiple Stick with the Floralies Satin Lip Pencil on the eyelid, then patting it over with eyeshadow in Goldfinger. To make the colour pop, kohl liner is liberally applied to the lower lash line and smudged out, and the backstage trick is to not use any primer or powder to set it for an organic and lived-in feel. Richardson then added in touches of chocolate brown eyeliner in short hair-like strokes for dimension which she lightly smudged in order to break down the edges of the black eyeliner for a softer look.
With a strong focus on the eyes, brows and lips are left mostly untouched, with the latter dabbed in the The Multiple in Maui for a natural ruddiness. The same product is used for the cheeks, mixed with Nars' Optimal Brightening Concentrate to separate the consistency so where more of the illuminating serum comes through, the blush dries down to an almost stippled effect to create a touchable, textural complexion.
Key products: Matte Multiple in Altai, Satin Lip Pencil in Floralies, Eyeshadow in Goldfinger, Velvet Eyeliner in Black Moon, The Multiple in Maui and Optimal Brightening Concentrate.