Pure creation: Behind Issey Miyake's new nectar-inspired perfume
Dew drops on roses
Very few fragrances change the face of perfumery — or at least heavily influence the trends. And Issey Miyake's iconic L'Eau D'Issey did just that when it was first released in 1992. Not only was this aquatic floral scent hugely popular, thanks to its wearable, transparent notes, its sleek, minimalist flaçon signalled a change in how we saw perfume bottles. No longer was it necessary to be gaudy, excessive or heavily embellished as the perfume bottle was transformed into an object of discreet luxury.
The newest incarnation of the scent is the L'Eau D'Issey Pure Nectar Eau de Parfum continuing the idea of capturing water in all its natural states. An intoxicating blend of pear, honeyed rose, creamy sandalwood, and the skin-like notes of cashmeran accord and ambergris, find out how perfumers Dominique Ropion and Fanny Bal capture the heart of nectar in this precious, new juice.
What did the word 'nectar' bring to mind when you conceived this new variation?
For us, nectar is synonymous with generosity, with opulence. We went back to the first moment of L’Eau d’Issey Pure, the Eau de Parfum, to bring out its more addictive, honeyed notes.
Why does pear, a drop-shaped fruit, show up in this Eau Pure?
Juicy rather than crisp, pear brings freshness to the top notes. But it also adds gustatory elements that work well with rose, since pears and roses have common fragrance components.
In this version, your rose is lusher than ever. How did you envision it?
To express the idea of nectar, we conceived a fleshier, more carnal rose by emphasising the honeyed facets of rose absolute with a honey accord, which introduces a new element in the fragrance.
Honey brings a gourmand touch yet the fragrance is as limpid as ever. How did you achieve this balance?
To bring transparency to the heart notes, we associated rose absolute with a lily-of-the-valley accord, as well as Rose Essential LMR, a type of extract that combines essential oil with rose water, for its more 'petally', dewier scent. Maritima, an IFF captive that smells of seawater, bolsters these transparent effects.
What connects this Nectar with the Eau de Parfum’s seaspray and ambergris notes?
We introduced sandalwood, which accents the flora, honeyed effects of the heart notes, while blending with the woody facets of cashmeran and the ambergris accord. Though sweeter and more flora, the Nectar de Parfum is still built upon the same structure as the original L’Eau d’Issey Pure.
$173 for 100ml. Available from March 2018 at major department stores