Marc Jacobs Beauty’s Global Artistry Ambassador, Morgane Martini, on the intricacies of eyeliner, mascara, and more
A teaching moment
Beauty, as with most fields, has consciously taken a digital pivot in the wake of a global pandemic. In a reality where testers are prohibited and the number of customers in a store limited, we've all had to adapt to keep the industry afloat — a task that some, undoubtedly, are better at than others. Marc Jacobs Beauty's Global Artistry Ambassador, Morgane Martini, is one of them if her rapidly growing social media presence is any tipoff. A skim of her feed reveals novel new makeup styles and experimental takes on classic fare; visages adorned with paint that appear as unique as they are approachable. It's a precarious balancing act as any, but it's one Martini aces, hitting the sweet spot between bold and OTT.
Bearing this in mind, we jumped at the chance to pick her brain so as to glean some insight on the latest trends, her skincare routine, and the hardest makeup skill to master. Get the full lowdown on the beauty creative and luminary, below.
How did your love affair with makeup begin?
I started my makeup journey in 2005 by attending a three-month class to learn makeup basics. I worked at Sephora for a year, after. I started building my portfolio while working at Sephora and then left to start assisting makeup artists in the fashion industry. After a couple years of assisting I got enough experience to be represented myself by an agency and, thus, started my career.
Did you always know that you wanted to be a makeup artist?
Nope. I was more into drawing and painting. Makeup came out of suggestion from my aunt and it really resonated in me. I am so glad I followed that path.
What are some of your main sources of inspiration behind your favourite makeup looks?
So many things! I am a big fan of the '70s/'80s and the Studio 54 era. I love how glamorous and fun the looks were back then, and it's definitely one of my favourite sources of inspiration. I can also get inspired from my everyday life, sometimes it's as simple as a color, a painting, an outfit, someone I see in the subway...
What is, by far, the most challenging makeup look you've done?
I can't really pinpoint one special look! I think overall what is always the most challenging is to keep a good balance. You can be a technical master with horrible taste ... in the end what matters the most is to be able to know when to add more and when to step back to keep the overall look harmonious and chic.
What are some considerations you have when crafting up a makeup look for a client?
My goal when I work with a private client or a celebrity is to make them feel their best. There's nothing more rewarding to me than a client that leaves the makeup chair feeling great about themselves. I love to show them how you can literally transform your face by enhancing the right features even in the subtlest way. I'm always looking for that perfect balance. I like to go full on sometimes, but I always make sure that the final look seems effortless, usually by keeping the skin very glowy and fresh.
Personally, what would you say is the hardest makeup skill to ace?
I would say mastering perfect eyeliner is probably a bit more technical because it depends a lot on the eye shape. If you have asymmetrical or hooded eyes, it can be a bit more challenging (but not impossible).
As a makeup artist, how does skincare play a part in your daily beauty regime?
I would say as a makeup artist I definitely learned a lot about skincare, but my personal skincare routine is very basic because I have very sensitive acne-prone skin. The less I do, the better. It's frustrating because there's a million products I wish I could use but it usually ends up giving me blemishes so I keep it simple and only exfoliate twice a week, I wash my face morning and evening with a gentle face soap and use an oil free moisturiser. For my clients though I love to do a full skin prep before applying makeup. It makes a huge difference on the glow and makes the makeup application so much easier!
What do you look for when it comes to a mascara?
It depends on the effect I am looking to accomplish. My two favorite mascaras are Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara and At Lash'd Lifting & Volumizing Mascara from Marc Jacobs Beauty. Velvet Noir has a curved brush and a thick texture which allows me to get that dramatic full fake lashes effect.
When I am looking for something more natural, I love to use At Lash'd which has a totally different brush. Its more elongated and thin, which is perfect to create more length, definition and give a great curl. So, I would say it's a lot about the shape of the brush and the texture.
What is one eye makeup look you think even novices can master?
A soft cat eye! My favourite trick is to draw on the lash line with the Marc Jacobs Beauty Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner and quickly blend it outwards with my finger or a brush. It doesn't need to be perfect, the idea is just to elongate the lash line.
Then I use a small Q-tip dipped into makeup if I want to correct the shape of the smudged liner. My favorite Highliners for this season are the new Gold Collection Highliners, they have a very soft glittery and shimmery finish which is perfect to enhance the eyes without being too much because the shades are very wearable (The shade Glittersweet is my fave!).
What would you say is going to be the next big makeup trend?
I don't really believe in trends, but I think eye makeup looks will definitely be the main focus since we are wearing masks. So, I would say that funky eyeliners and fun colorful eyeshadows will be the next big thing! I highly recommend having fun with it and experimenting with makeup to spice up your look.
If you had to create a red-carpet makeup look with just three products, which would you use?
First, I'll go with the Marc Jacobs Beauty Accomplice Concealer & Touch-Up Stick to create a perfect skin and cover any dark circles or blemishes. Next, I'll reach for the Eye-conic Palette in Extravagance that has a great variety of shades and finishes to create a lot of eye looks as well as two neutral shades that I could use to contour and highlight the face. And of course, the Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara for gorgeous full lashes.
Last but not least: if there's a makeup product that best represents you, what would you be, and why?
I guess I would be an Eye-Conic Palette because they have multiple finishes and textures and are playful!