How to groom, shape, and maintain your own eyebrows: Benefit’s National Brow Artist, Rochelle, tells all

How to groom, shape, and maintain your own eyebrows: Benefit’s National Brow Artist, Rochelle, tells all

Tweezers at the ready

Text: Emily Heng

Difficult as it might be to believe, the Buro. Beauty team is in mourning. That's right, we regret to inform you grief is a tangible thing even amidst a jam-packed schedule comprising Terrace House marathons, Animal Crossing meetups, and productive online workouts. No, we're hardly devastated by the slow, impending death of our social lives — but rather, our impeccable, well-groomed arches, courtesy of our favourite brow technicians.

R.I.P. lit brows, it's been a swell time. At least, that's how we felt during the early days when circuit breaker measures first came into effect. Today, however, brings a new wave of positivity as well as a can-do attitude bolstered by the success of our DIY manis and haircuts. Bearing this in mind, we gathered some intel from our favourite Benefit brow expert, Rochelle, on how to keep those caterpillars looking snatched during self-quarantine.

What tools do you need to shape your brows?

Rochelle suggests you do the deed (ha) in a well-lit area. Other essentials include a micro-lining brow pencil to map the brow shape, a clear brow gel to help with trimming, tweezers, and brow scissors, preferably with a rounded tip.

What is the best way map out your ideal brow shape?

"Simply take your favorite brow pencil and make these three measurements to find the shape that best fits your face," Rochelle advises. "We'll use the nose as the single point of origin to map out both brows. Using the same point of origin for both brows will help you create symmetry and balance. First, find the start: measure straight from the dimple of the nose to the beginning of the brow and make a mark."

Next, look for the arch. "Beginning at the edge of the nose we pass through the pupil to the highest portion of the brow and make a mark," she says. "Finally, identify the end: measure from the outer edge of the nose past the outer corner of the eye and make a mark. After you've made those marks, use a brow pencil to sketch a few lines to connect each mark on the top and the bottom of your brow. Hairs that fall outside those lines are the ones you should tweeze and the ones that are inside the lines should stay.

How should you trim and shape your brows?

If you're thinking of tweezing just a few stray hairs, Rochelle recommends you do it with the help of a clear brow gel. Brush it through hairs in an upward motion and out towards the temple. Once it dries, trim the ends that are sticking out past your desired shape. However, if you're thinking of doing some major brow reconstruction, here's some tip and tricks to note.

"Always use natural lighting. If possible, tweeze near a window with even lighting on your face," she instructs. "Then, use a brow pencil to fill in your brow into the desired shape. This step allows you to see which hairs need to go and which ones need to stay." Once that's done, pull the skin tight with one finger and tweeze hairs in the direction it is growing. Typically, that is upwards or towards the temple rather than straight out and away from the face.

"You see, each brow hair is connected to a tiny blood vessel (derma vessel) that keeps it healthy and allows it to grow back when the hair is removed," Rochelle elaborates. "Tweezing in the wrong direction or against the direction of natural growth can cause that vessel to rupture."

What are some ways to reduce redness after tweezing your brows?

Sensitised skin can often experience redness and itchiness after plucking. To get that sitch under control, apply a generous layer of aloe vera gel. Not only does this cool the skin, it also reduces any lingering stinging caused by all that tugging and yanking. Failing that, a wet teabag or moisturiser should do the trick, too. Do note that it is best to avoid piling on makeup straight after a session as caking chemicals on raw, aggravated skin could lead to clogs and breakouts. Keep skin bare, or lightly fill in arches with an eyebrow tint should it be necessary to add some depth and colour to brows.