Talking matte lips and beauty trends with Make Up For Ever
Maritsa Avedikyan, first worked with Make Up For Ever 11 years ago as an intern at the iconic Sephora Champs Elysées store. After working with other makeup brands, she came back full circle to Make Up For Ever, because she genuinely believed in the brand's principles of artistry and the fact that it could serve both professional needs as well as the desires of the everywoman. Here is Singapore to promote the brand's new Artist Liquid Matte, we asked her for makeup tips, must-have products and changing trends.
How do you think makeup trends have changed?
In the past I was inspired by makeup artists like Pat McGrath and Peter Philips. 11 years ago there wasn't that much social media, so you would look at supermodels and big name makeup artists. And in the 2000s you couldn't talk about a French trend or an Asian trend, as trends were more global.
What are your sources of inspiration?
Previously, I was more inspired by Parisian influences or photographers like Peter Lindbergh and Mario Testino, but now I am more exposed to different trends. I love Iris Apfel. Even at her age she is so exuberant and she doesn't care what other people think. I get inspiration from other sources, that might seem strange to you, like trip hop, hip-hop and R&B — as these genres all orginated from soul music, which was the music created by a population that suffered in the past.
In fashion, I am influenced by designers like Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen and the way she plays with fabric and volume. I saw a red dress made of taffeta roses on the recent SS 18 runways that really experiments with colours and textures, and I can apply some of these principles to my makeup as well.
Dany Sanz, the founder of Make Up For Ever is a good motivator too as she was not always set on being a makeup artist, but actually went to fine art school and fell into makeup and body makeup from her time doing painting in a theatre. She was a self-taught makeup artist and I admire what she's done for the makeup industry including starting the brand and the makeup school. I also love the young, makeup artist Isamaya French. Like Dany she didn't go to makeup school, and I love her fresh and beautiful work and how she doesn't follow beauty codes — such as using conventionally beautiful models — but she still attains wonderful results.
How far in advance do you work on your collections?
We work one to two years in advance, but we try to be responsive to what customers need and stay connected to what's going on. Sometimes there are unpredictable trends from social media, but the local offices of Make Up For Ever create their own makeup boxes (which contain a selection of key products needed to create a look) based on local trends. We also have several people in the main office who specifically monitor trends.
Being French yourself and Make Up For Ever hailing from Paris, what to you is modern French beauty and how do we attain it?
French women want to look effortless and fresh. People in France don't like it when makeup is visible on the face, although there are women who do put on more dramatic makeup for a night out, or teenagers who experiment with more beauty trends.
The most basic makeup they would wear would be concealer, the Lip Booster and a bold lipstick like the new Artist Liquid Matte. Lipstick is the most efficient way to look instantly fresh. Finally a French woman would use a powder like our Ultra HD Pressed Powder to mattify her T-zone. French women today are very much attuned to social media trends. They will come into our stores with images to show us, and pick and choose the products they need. They are much more into bushy, effortless eyebrows now though, and I do see them using more eyebrow products.
What do you think are the trends that will be on the way out, and the trends that will be back in style?
I think heavy contouring will be out. For complexion trends, we will be looking more at matte, powdery textures and items like our Artist Face Color that is more about soft blending and contouring. I think we will also see a return to a sense of freshness on the lips. Lips will be softer. We will also see glitter being used in even more ways.
Tell us about the new Artist Liquid Matte. What makes it different from other liquid lipsticks on the market?
There are so many liquid lipsticks on the market that our formula had to be different. It is comfortable to use and gives you more playtime, as it doesn't set as fast. It is easy to blend two different colours together to create a gradient lip effect, and it looks smooth. My favourite colour that suits everyone is 109. It works on all complexions from very fair to very dark. I also love the bright purple shade.
What's the best way to apply Artist Liquid Matte?
First, always moisturise your lips with the Lip Booster and remove any excess. Next, use a lip pencil to draw the outline, creating the shape that you desire. Then fill in the colour with the Artist Liquid Matte. You only need one layer, as its pigmented enough. You can choose a darker colour pencil than the Artist Liquid Matte if you want to create the illusion of fuller lips. If you really want that sharp, defined lip, use a nude lip pencil or concealer pencil along the lip contours after you're done applying, so that your lipstick looks really precise.
What are your five, favourite Make Up For Ever products and what are your tips for using them?
First, I love the Step 1 Skin Equalizers. You can even use just that product and some powder, if you feel like giving your skin a break. I start with the Hydrating Primer, then I choose the colour correcting primer I need, and I finish with the Ultra HD Powder just on my T-zone. I don't mind my skin looking a bit shiny on my cheeks, but not on my forehead and chin!
I have to mention the new Artist Liquid Matte, as I love the technology behind it. One tip I have is that you can use our Lip Booster to revive the colour halfway through the day, so your colour can be refreshed and blended in again without the need to reapply. It's great for getting rid of that ring of faded lipstick in the center of the mouth. I love the Aqua XL Eye Pencil. I like using the taupe shade on the waterline for very subtle definition. And I use a darker shade on the lower lash line — I like that it doesn't budge.
The Artist Face Colour is another favourite as it is such a finely milled powder without the usual powdery finish. It doesn't look like anything on your skin, leaving behind just the pigment, and it is so easy to blend. You can choose the colour according to the undertone of your complexion and the intensity and effect you're trying to achieve. The brush you use is also important, so I would recommend one like the #158 which is a double-ended brush. Use the bevelled brush to a sculpt the face, by placing colour under the cheekbone and blending upwards. Then, blend everything well with the fluffy brush that's on the other end, softly buffing so there is no visible line.
Finally I have to mention Mist & Fix. It sets all your makeup and I even use it several times in one application. For example, I would spray it on a buffing brush when I'm applying my primer and again at the end of my routine to help my makeup stay on even longer.
Artist Liquid Matte is available from 12 October at Make Up For Ever counters