Go backstage at the Dior Haute Couture SS16 show
Loved the makeup at the Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016 show? Well there was a story and a message behind the two looks. Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Make-up, created either a strong black eye, or a fiery red lip on the models that walked the runway. Says Philips,"This diaphanous beauty displays eyes emphasised with black eyeliner combined with a nude lip, while some models put in appearances displaying scarlet lips set against a flawless complexion."
He explained, "Only a few groups of models, in the middle and at the end of the show, wore an intense shade of red lipstick. The idea was to create a 'coup de Trafalgar' and revive the memory of the red looks thus named by Christian Dior, who would send these flamboyant designs out in the middle of a show to take the audience by surprise."
To create the clean, black-lines eyes (above) you'll need to invest in not one but two kinds of mascara. Philips says, "The upper eyelid was heightened by applying Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof black eyeliner at the lash line. The horizontal line lengthens the eye. Next I emphasized lashes to obtain a really thick, heavy lash. Fist I coated them with Diorshow Maximiser 3D, then I applied multiple coats of black mascara, alternating between Diorshow Designer, which creates density, and Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Waterproof, which maintains good curl in the lashes."
For the second look, the eyes were kept clean, while the lips were played up. Says Philips, "I outlined the lips with Crayon Contour Lèvres in Rouge Royal, then I applied Fabuleuse, the highly pigmented red shade of Diorific Mat. Next, to create the shaded effect, I added a darker touch of Crayon Contours Lèvres in Prune Troublant, blended with the deep red Diorific Mat Troublante, to the centre of the lower lip," he added "blending the edges a little bit so that the lip line wasn't sharply defined, but just a little bit blurred."
To create the flawless complexion on the models, Philips used the same products and technique. He says, "I blended Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation into the skin to even out and illuminate the skin. A few touches of Diorskin Star Concealer and a light dusting of Poudre Nude Air added the finishing touches to this flawless complexion."