Chanel makeup maven Lucia Pica on her tips and tricks behind crafting the SS19 haute couture beauty looks
The maze of creative thought fortifying Lucia Pica's makeup craft is a privilege not everyone is privy to. As it shouldn't be, considering her impressive portfolio. Having served as Chanel's Global Creative Makeup and Colour Designer over the past four years, she has been the brain and brawn responsible for the brand's many momentous beauty looks — ranging from the deliciously dramatic to the undisputed classic.
If you live in the vain hope that she might, one day, share her techniques behind her statement liner (in hopes of inheriting some of that talent), then today might just be your lucky day.
Fresh off flicking her wrist at Chanel's 2019 spring/summer haute couture show, the eminent makeup artist opens up on her source of inspiration, her much-wielded makeup techniques, as well as her go-to products in the creation of this season's hot (or should we say, haute) look.
The clothes, the inspiration
"The silhouette is 18th century but the girl has a Bowiesque feeling to her, especially in the makeup. Karl Lagerfeld sent me a sketch and it felt really like that."
"The shape of the eye is quite rounded at the top, a blended blue with a slight teal undertone. I added a sharp graphic line going underneath the eye to add a graphic strength to it. So there is the softness of the blending of the eyeshadow on the top and the toughness of the eyeliner underneath that is straight. There is a balm shine on top of the eyelid to make it a little bit more alive and lived in."
"The lips are red and matte, the skin is quite pale and porcelain, light and groomed but not too shiny."
"Overall, there is a contrast of textures with the matte lip, the balmy deep eyes and the soft translucent skin. This contrast reflects the allure of the girl walking the show: elegant and sophisticated but with toughness to her. She is powerful and strong."
The makeup, oh the makeup!
"I used Stylo Ombre Et Contour Bleu Nuit underneath with a matte texture on top from Les 9 Ombres — Èdition N°2 Quintessence, to give more depth. I chose these colours on the eye because they recall some deep colours from the collection, navy blue with a teal undertone that drawn my attention. I love this type of colour coming through another colour, it gives more depth."
"The final touch on the eyelid is the Baume Essentiel Transparent to give a glossy, alive and modern finish."
"For the lips, I used Rouge Allure Velvet Extrême Idéal, a matte red, and then I added a touch of Rouge Allure Liquid Powder Invincible to intensify the matte effect."
Techniques and tricks
"It's pretty easy to do the eye, with the Stylo Ombre Et Contour Bleu Nuit: scribble it on and then blend it with a blending brush. Then you apply an eyeshadow on top to intensify it and add more depth, you dab the eyeshadow onto the pencil Les Pinceaux De Chanel Flat Eyeshadow Brush and it just sticks to it. It's easy!"
"My favorite product is the Stylo Ombre Et Contour Bleu Nuit, it is really easy to apply. It is emphasized by the Baume Essentiel Transparent applied on the eyelid as the finishing touch of the look."