Best shows from PMFW SS18: Sacai, Dior Homme, Henrik Vibskov and Hermès
It's Saturday in Paris but that doesn't mean it's any less crowded on the streets. As editor-in-chief Norman Tan battles the traffic to get to the shows, listen in as he talks you through the latest runway trends, picks the pieces he's already wish-listed for next season, and chats to Kris van Assche backstage about his highly tailored collection for Dior Homme spring/summer 2018.
As always, scroll down to look at the runway images as you listen to Norman talk you through the shows.
How do I listen to the audio reviews?
The audio file should play automatically. Turn up your volume.
File doesn't play automatically?
Click on the play button below. Also check your Internet connection.
Can't hear anything?
Ensure that your computer or smartphone is not on mute or silent.
For optimum performance?
Listen to the reviews in a quiet area or use your earphones.
SACAI: BRING ON THE BERMS
Designer: Chitose Abe
All you need to know: Held in the futuristic Cité de la musique, all the way out in the 19th arrondissement on an early Saturday morn — I literally just made the show; was one of the last guests to walk in — Sacai was a fusion of deconstructed punk street wear, by way of strapped parkas and terry toweling tops, combined with western fringe detailing on teal blue and emerald green jackets. There were a series of black-and-white ensembles slathered with logos and harnessed with backpacks, but my favourite look was the multi-coloured (almost madras) check applied to a parka in warm hues paired with matching shorts. Talking about shorts, almost every menswear look was presented with knee-length Bermudas. Time to bare your legs, gentlemen.
DIOR HOMME: LATENIGHT SUMMER
Designer: Kris van Assche
All you need to know: "I wanted to rework the DNA of the brand, which is a black fitted suit and a white shirt," said Kris van Assche backstage after the show; explaining why he started his spring/summer 2018 runway with formal wear instead of the common practice of beginning with casual attire. "And I wanted to prepare this for the future. How can we give it a new identity?" The result? Van Assche paraded a modern tailored offering down the grass-covered runway in the Grand Palais under a sky of black tinsel. Think: Shrunken double-breasted black suits paired with a long belt-scarf bearing the words 'Christian Dior Atelier No. 3 Rue Marignan'; knee-length and backless gilets revealing a T-shirt printed with the same atelier address; and, my top pick, that three-piece single-breasted suit printed all over with ribbons also bearing the atelier address. Backed by a killer soundtrack produced by Frédéric Sanchez — a hypnotic mix of 'Creep' by Radiohead, 'Losing my religion' by R.E.M., and 'Enjoy the silence' by Depeche Mode — casual wear came in the form of sleeveless tops with collegiate typeface spelling out 'Latenight Paris' contrasted with full and long black trousers; burgundy bombers with super short shorts; and those white sneakers with neon red and yellow trimming that anchored a lion share of the show's exits.
HENRIK VIBSKOV: THE GREAT CHAIN OF SLEEPERS
Designer: Henrik Vibskov
All you need to know: Inspired by the fact that one of his performers in last season's show actually fell asleep for a few minutes during the performance (totally understandable as they had to lie down on their back for most of the show), for spring/summer 2018 Henrik Vibskov explored the concept of sleep from different angles: The different postures, the different locations, and the different consequences of too much or little sleep. With that, he presented a collection marked by models wearing under-eye masks and sporting taupe suits (appliquéd with motifs of people sleeping under colourful blankets, the same life-size motifs hanging upside down on metal brackets that filled the show venue) belted with canary yellow belts; kimono-style brocade robes in rich vermillion; blue-and-white striped shirts (seeing a lot of this on the runways including earlier today at Sacai) with sleeves stitched to the body or tied around the waist; red, blue and white horizontally striped grey suiting (always love a layered sartorial option); and suede desert boots with crisscross strapping in colour-blocked hues. Inventive, enchanting to witness, and always a fun fashion ride.
HERMÈS: HAVING A BALL
Designer: Véronique Nichanian
All you need to know: We all know that Hermès doesn't do 'fashion' — it's a craft house that prides itself on hand-workmanship — but increasingly, season after season, Hermès does active wear. With her finger on the menswear pulse, Nichanian delivered a collection that discerning men of today want to wear: Functional clothes and accessories that are lovingly and beautifully made. Let's talk favourites: That opening hooded zip-up blouson in red shiny Toilbright with a mini-herringbone pattern worn under a single breasted blazer; that rust red cotton poplin shirt with a graphic chaîne d'ancre print; that weightless straight leather blouson in chiffon crocodile (chiffon crocodile, people); and those Bolide Ball bags (one in pearl grey calfskin, the other in deep ocean blue calfskin) with contrast topstitching to make it look like a baseball. Brilliant. Clearly, for spring/summer 2018, #HermesHomme is having a ball.
Buro 24/7 Selection
Leave a comment
Buro 24/7 Selection
Conscious jewellery: Diamonds made in Singapore shine in eco-friendly French jewellery
Inside our #BuroSocial dinner at The Mill
How to speak Korean: 10 phrases to ensure your Seoul Fashion Week survival
That touch of luxe: The new Tiffany & Co. Home & Accessories collection
What goes into making a Louis Vuitton trunk?
Buro 24/7 Selection