LOEWE: ARTISANAL AESTHETICS
The collection: A strong advocate of art and culture, the Jonathan Anderson's FW16 collection for Loewe was a beautifully curated presentation focused on the Spanish luxury house's heritage and leather expertise. Definitely Anderson's best collection to date. It was sophisticated yet controlled, experimental yet elegant, and of course, modern yet eccentric. Silhouettes were feminine: Sheer bodices wrapped tightly around the torso (looks 8 and 10) and structured leather bustiers (looks 19 and 36) added definition to a woman's waist. Knife pleating and handkerchief hemlines provided fluidity and movement. But the real highlight were the accessories incorporated into the ready-to-wear pieces. Beaded and chain-mail necklaces were threaded through collars, sleeves, and cuffs (looks 3 and 6) — a brilliant fusion that could only be conceived by Anderson.
Something you might have missed: The dress in look 35 was actually knitted out of industrial rubber bands, and the chainmail dress in look 38 was looped together using hardware store hoops. Anderson took reuse, reduce and recycle to new levels of luxury.
Standout accessories: Size ruled the runway where both bags and accessories were decisively colossal. Gigantic chain link chokers were hard to miss, along with the extra large cat face and mask pendants strung around models' necks. And we also loved the multi-bag trompe l'oeil effect on the Amazona handbag that recalled Russian nesting dolls.
ISSEY MIYAKE: RED RIDING HOOD
The soundtrack: A primal resonance emanating from the "Kankisenthizer" — a new musical instrument, tempered with auto-tune, played by musicians Ei Wada and Haruka Yoshida.
The collection: A sculptural offering that combined the maison's iconic accordian pleats with a joyous colour palette. It started with wearable separates printed with a kaleidoscopic cross-hatch of cobalt, teal, purple and canary yellow — including a verdant red intermission of masculine shirts (looks 8 and 9) — parlaying into sombre ensembles in black and grey, paired with a black quilted gilet (look 17) and truncated puffer blazer (look 19); before finishing with a dynamic (both in colour and movement) cavalcade of dresses and coats moulded and shaped in hypnotic plissé peaks and swirls (highlights include looks 29, 31 and 36). The very definition of art in motion.
Favourite look: Hands-down, the dramatic billowing coat, matched with a corsetted V-neck top and skirt, all crafted from a rich red micro plissé (look 40). Reminiscent of Red Riding Hood, but pre-loaded with heaps more 'tude.
ISABEL MARANT: ROCKABILLY HIGH
Hair-piration: The perfectly coiled quif, side-swept at the front, contrasted with long and free-flowing tresses at the back. Yup, it's time to get your rockabilly on.
The collection: Rock'n'roll classics fused with country staples, and elevated with animal prints. In essence, the very definition of 'rockabilly', but re-hashed for the 21st century through the injection of oversized coats and menswear fabrications. Think: A black Victorian lace blouse layered under a knit cardigan, fastened with an oversized safety pin, paired with a red patent leather skirt and a houndstooth coat with a boxy boy-ish cut (look 3); an Argyle sweater, with extended shoulder seams, contrasted with a skinny Zebra-striped trouser (look 8); and a buttoned-up maroon shirt worn with a grey cardigan, tucked into a Prince of Wales check trouser, and topped with a leather moto jacket cast in cheetah print (look 16).
Buro loves: The peak-lapel oversized coats (look 10 and 27) and all the black leather ankle boots, with exotic animal prints and statement buckle straps, that routinely anchored the majority of looks. Must-buy.
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