Best shows from LFW FW18: Rejina Pyo, MM6 Maison Margiela and Mary Katrantzou
London Fashion Week: Day 3
REJINA PYO: NO PLACE LIKE HOME
The set: The show was staged in Burlington Arcade, an old shopping mall in the heart of Mayfair. In line with the tone of the collection, the show was equally intimate — every seat was a front row seat. Designers, pay attention.
The inspiration: As an homage to her personal heritage, this collection was decidedly a heartfelt letter home for Rejina Pyo. Successfully averting the risk of being a tad too sappy, Pyo referred to vintage family photographs which she translated into the overall faded color scheme of the collection.
The collection: If Rejina Pyo isn't already on your radar, we recommend adding the Central Saint Martin's graduate to your ones-to-watch list. With just two runway shows under her belt, this being her second, Pyo has already amassed a legion of loyal fans, influencers and editors alike. And it's not hard to see why — her pieces breathe a quiet confidence that resonate strongly with the modern woman (think Jil Sander and Céline fans — or Philophobes). Note the roomy silhouettes and hemlines that never go higher than the shin; Pyo makes a case for comfort and modesty, assuring these pieces blend seamlessly into anyone's workwear wardrobe. Outerwear remained relatively safe, but Pyo's calibre shines through the details: the contrast stitch, wooden buttons, and abstract footwear. From invitation (which had a photograph of Pyo's grandmother) to show, this season was deeply personal. Beyond the sepia colorways, the clothes were a call to sentimental bric-à-brac and hand-me-downs.
MM6 MAISON MARGIELA: FOIL FANTASY
The presentation: Entirely plastered in tin foil, local pub The Running Horse was completely transformed into a space-age capsule, reminiscent of Andy Warhol's Factory. Music tracks were deliberately played in abrupt succession as guests shuffled around in what felt like a confined space vacuum.
The collection: Like the rest of the set, the clothes were entirely silver, metallic and reflective. Galactic anoraks and quilted parkas seemed to evoke an urgent call for protection and insulation. When committing to a single colour, texture play becomes especially pertinent — and the MM6 team was acutely aware of that. Ribbed pieces were paired with pleats, while disco-esque panels went with slinkier pieces. The presentation was irresistible Insta-catnip, but we're curious to see how the clothes perform standalone without a permanent foil backdrop.
Upon closer inspection: Some pieces took on a freshly cracked finishing, perhaps suggesting that even the most weatherproof, future-friendly of clothes are susceptible to wear.
MARY KATRANTZOU: INTERIOR LIVES
The inspiration: Returning to her roots in interior textile design, Mary Katrantzou looked at a multitude of art movement references, namely the collaborative nature of Bauhaus and modernist art. Katrantzou specifically cited the work of William Morris, the 19th century textile designer who spearheaded the revival of traditional British textile art.
The collection: Trust Mary Katrantzou to never skimp on craft and technique; this season she went Victorian with cinch-waist jackets, crinoline hips and sequined drapery. Pointilist paintings were rendered in glass beads, and magic carpet tapestry was sculpted into opulent outerwear. A natural extension of her background in interior design, architectural shapes were taken and translated into sturdy blazers and evening column dresses.
Something you might have missed: Anti-fur protesters have been making their voices heard for multiple season at London Fashion Week now, and this season, they were louder than ever. Shortly after the first look, an especially impassioned protester managed to make her way on the runway, but was quickly escorted out by security. In light of the incident, the label issued a statement to guests stating that the collection was in fact fur-free.
All coverage from London Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.
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