Best shows from MMFW SS18: MSGM, Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada and Moncler Gamme Bleu
On the second full day of Milan men's fashion week, the temperature was hot on the streets but even hotter on the runways. What transpired in the menswear capital of sartorial style? Listen to the audio review by editor-in-chief Norman Tan for a curated break down on the latest and greatest as you scroll through the runway images below.
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MSGM: URBAN JUNGLE
Designer: Massimo Giorgetti
All you need to know: This was the fourth show that we've seen open with all-white ensembles — OFF-WHITE, Ermenegildo Zegna, Neil Barrett and now MSGM — so for spring/summer 2018, get ready for a white out. Giorgetti is always very current, designing pieces that hit that sweet spot of trendy and sporty. This season, he issued acid bright floral prints strewn across nylon anoraks; layered shiny slickers under structured blazers; and paired baseball caps with oversized pullovers. In short, the urban jungle is his jam. And this was most explicit when he sent out green and yellow camo parkas alongside transparent hooded crop tops worn over horizontal stripe knits. Favourite look? That ecru cable knit pullover embroidered with words of colours: Blue azure, rouge red, green vert. Colour-blocking just went literal.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: PLAYING THE SHORTS GAME
Designer: Guillaume Meilland
All you need to know: For his second outing as Ferragamo's men's design director, Meilland transformed the show venue at Pelazzo Mezzanotte into a clean runway of unvarnished timber floorboards and modular seating, all flanked by tall potted plants reaching up to the glass ceiling. Fresh. Bright. Contemporary. The same words apply to his spring show, sending out corduroy shorts paired with white summer blazers, camp collar shirts tucked into tan fitted trousers, and this gorgeous devoré velvet coat that was TDF (that's, to die for). Also a fan of the bags — in particular, the opening fold-over clutch and the closing square tote; both in a sumptuous shade of walnut.
PRADA: DRAFT NOVEL
Designer: Miuccia Prada
All you need to know: The aesthetic of the Prada show space at Via Fogazzaro is always highly anticipated, so we like to take a punt before seeing the runway. With the words 'Draft Novel' printed on the invitation, speculation ran rife from a library with pages of books glued to the wall ("Nah, Mrs Prada is never that literal") to a train station fitted with street lamps ("Because you read books on the train") but, in the end, the show space was covered with blown-up comic strips featuring monkeys shooting lasers from their eyes. Very X-Men meets Planet of the Apes. When it came to the looks, I felt the same way as I did at Ermenegildo Zegna two days ago: How do I order this stuff now?! Black jumpsuit cinched at the waist with a large bum bag stacked with another black leather belt with vintage hardware. I'll take the whole look, thanks. Two shirts layered over each other and tucked into short shorts with their collars popped up for dramatic effect. (Great!) Short-sleeve leather blouson worn with high nylon trousers fastened with a studded leather belt and anchored with studded leather sandals. (Take my credit card already.) Everything felt so current and covetable. P.S. Also very keen on the flashes of teal. A colour to watch.
MONCLER GAMME BLEU: SNOWY SUMMER
Designer: Thom Browne
All you need to know: Hang on, this feels like déjà vu. Entering the show space to see real fir trees covered in fake snow, it looked like the Moncler fall/winter 2017 show in January that had the same set design. However, upon closer inspection, we realised that the winter landscape was only a slice of the story. The other half of the runway was summer themed — palm trees and white sand abundant. And after watching the entire show, it all made sense: Thom Browne was taking us from the snow and slopes to the sun and sand, highlighting the brand's versatility and, as a corollary, the global nature of today's luxury consumer. How was this shown on the models? Well, we all know Browne loves a good strip down. First, models wore highly layered and quilted ensembles (that transitioned from grey to red checks before ending in black) with all the outerwear pieces sporting a large white zip down the back. Then another smaller group of male models, wearing nothing more than just swimwear, came out to help unzip the fully dressed models to reveal a summer wardrobe of three-piece suits occasionally worn with fur coats and gilets. Decadent. Dapper. Distinguished.
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