Best shows from PMFW FW17 Day 2: Juun.J, Christian Dada, Cerruti 1881, Givenchy and Berluti
What will Jason Basmajian present for the 50th anniversary of Cerruti 1881? And how will Haider Ackermann shake up the Berluti brand as its new creative director? Find out as Norman Tan reports live from the City of Lights with his audio reviews of the best shows from Paris men's fashion week fall/winter 2017.
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JUUN.J: ARMY ARCHIVE
Designer: Jung Wook Jun
Synopsis: Guests at the show were gifted with a black baseball cap with the words 'ARCHIVE' embroidered on the front — a memento to the fact, that with this fall/winter 2017 collection, Jun is celebrating 10 years of his namesake brand. What followed were reinterpretations of his greatest hits, including oversized trench coats bulging with patch pockets; metallic puffer gilets worn over suiting; drawstring parkas with drawstring waists; and a closing procession of nylon hooded parkas (in military green, black and grey) with in-built bag straps so the coat could be worn sans sleeves. Very cool.
CHRISTIAN DADA: TOO FAST TO LIVE, TOO YOUNG TO DIE
Designer: Masanori Morikawa
Synopsis: The main ingredients for Morikawa's fall/winter 2017 stew of streetwear were long-sleeve slogan tees (emblazoned with sayings such as 'Too fast to live, too young to die' and 'I don't like drugs, drugs like me'); kimono-style suits and blazers; metallic puffers worn over penitentiary orange (not dissimilar to the gilets we saw at Juun.J); knit sweaters with the word 'Heroin' plastered on the chest; and, of course, generous lashings of teenage angst. A collection for the coming-of-age dude searching for his place in the world.
CERRUTI 1881: PURPLE REIGN
Designer: Jason Basmajian
Synopsis: How do you celebrate 50 years of a brand? By presenting a collection that pays tribute to each decade, of course. And with that, Basmajian unveiled a resolutely masculine and tailored offering — memorably steeped in a palette of vibrant aubergine — consisting of three piecers (styled with a high round-neck gilet); drop shoulder duster coats (belted for that cinched silhouette); and blazers and knits cast in an oversized, almost houndstooth, check jacquard. Some will call it commercial, but it was refreshing to see a strong sartorial offering in a sea of streetwear.
GIVENCHY: GIVING GOOD FACE
Designer: Riccardo Tisci
Synopsis: The problem with presenting women's haute couture together with menswear, is that the intricate beauty of the couture (not to mention the glamorous gait of the female models) tends to overshadow the men's show. Luckily, Tisci had a few iconic looks up his sleeves for his bevvy of buff gents: Bold red and orange (there it is again, that penitentiary hue!) striped sweaters worn over large statement ties; pullovers knitted with Maui-style faces in bold primary colours (sometimes just worn over the model's head, with the sleeves left dangling at the neck); and hoodies with foulards replacing the traditional rope drawstring in the hood; and black suits with oversized circular buttons (from tortoise shell to blinged out iterations with pearls and gemstones).
BERLUTI: DOPE, DELUXE, DEBUT
Designer: Haider Ackermann
Synopsis: Held in the Grand Palais, and with plush green velvet benches as seats, the Berluti show had all the expected trappings of its gentry of well-heeled clients. Initial thoughts: Expect traditional suiting and exotic skin accessories. I was half right. Ackermann sent out an army of cavalier men — casually ambling out, sometimes alone but also in pairs, surveying the audience rather than staring blindly down the runway — routinely wearing white T-shirts as a base to an assortment of relaxed menswear staples (including leather aviator jackets and cashmere bombers) finished with luxe details (such as crocodile trims on collar lapels) and toting deliciously decadent croc duffles. It was a welcome fusion of Ackermann's sexy swagger, with the maison's signature savoir faire. What a dope and deluxe debut. Bravo.
SEE YOU IN TOMORROW:
Check back tomorrow as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go live reporting from Paris men's fashion week fall/winter 2017 season.
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