Best shows from PFW SS17 Day 1: Jacquemus and Saint Laurent
Paris fashion week
JACQUEMUS: A MOMENT IN PROVENCE
The brand: For young designer Simon Porte Jacquemus — practically a teen in the world of fashion run by pundits the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada and Donatella Versace — the 26-year-old has keen perspective on his side, if not time. From fall 2015's supersized shoulder jackets to spring 2016's deconstructed hot mess, this designer knows what the people want – and when they want it. As Guram Gvasalia (left brain of Vetements) once said, "We got the right product out there when people were ready to accept it." He wasn't referring to Jacquemus, but Paris' fledgling talent took flight in the same vein. While he continues to establish the label's code of dramatised tailoring each season, pay heed as he's bound for fashion's 30 under 30 list for sure.
The collection: Refined yet riveting and classical yet urbane, Jacquemus was inspired by Santons de Provence or 'little saint', the nativity scene figurines born of the French revolution. While the inspiration manifested in a polished train of mutton-leg sleeves (looks 1, 10 & 12), doiley-edged blouses (looks 2, 6 & 28), bindings and corsetry (looks 15, 17 & 20) and old-world checks and textiles (looks 11 & 23), the Riviera held sway over more than just that. It's dreamy seaside quality and undertones of whimsicality rendered by Jacquemus in tousled windswept hair (all looks) and barely-there makeup, save for gently rouged cheeks and lips.
Buro loves: This season's exagerrated shoulders on oversized pantsuits given shape by pinched waists (looks 11 & 14) , evocative of a coming-of-age narrative (imagine: Daddy's girl playing dress up) that's entirely on the pulse and downright wearable.
SAINT LAURENT: BRINGING SEXY BACK
The venue: Held at the former Ministry of French Armed Forces, guests were greeted by an illuminated iconic 1961 YSL logo suspended from a crane in the middle of a construction site. Was this the new creative director's way of saying that he's going to start from ground zero? Possibly. Located at 37 rue de Bellechasse, the chosen venue is in fact the brand's new headquarters that's still under development.
The collection: When news broke that Anthony Vaccarello would take over the reigns at Saint Laurent, many were not surprised. Today at his debut runway show for the brand, the 34-year-old Belgian designer nailed the Saint Laurent DNA. Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking suit was reinterpreted in Vaccarello style; sexy, and sultry. In some cases, blazer sleeves were intentionally 'ripped off' to reveal shoulder pads and loose threads (looks 18 & 19). Mini dresses were aplenty in tube, one-shoulder and, most of time, with voluminous sleeves. Leather was a given, while sheer lace and tulle (worn sans bra) was the talk of the town. And then, there was look 25: The leather tube dress worn by Binx Walton that only covered one side of her boob, while the other was concealed with a heart crystal-embellished nipple tape.
Accessories: At Saint Laurent, wearing logo-emblazoned tops are out. Wearing pumps with a logo heel, logo ear cuffs and stick-on tattoos (on the ankle) are in.
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