Show reviews: Highlights from NYFWM fall/winter 2016 — Day 1 & 2
New York Fashion Week: Men's
PUBLIC SCHOOL: INITIAL PUBLIC OFFERING
Location and set: Ever wondered what's in a name? Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow staged a show for the (public) records this time around, showing their collection to students — and of course, the industry — on the sidewalk of Milk Studios. Unlike the law enforcement themed SS16 presentation where models were lined up in the confines of a room, consider this the brand's initial public offering.
The collection: Velcro suit jackets (looks 1 & 5)? Check. Zipper suit jackets (looks 18 & 24)? Check. Suiting up is rarely factored into Public School's sartorial formula, but the design duo have devised a (frankly, rather brilliant) way to do so this fall/winter 2016, all while keeping the label's streetwear slash sportswear ethos in check. Tapping on a seperate vein, Chow and Osborne also introduced the urban utilitarian this season. See their sleek interpretation of the boiler suit broken up by leather straps wrapped around the waist (look 8).
I spy: The belted waist — a trend fast snowballing as the menswear fashion weeks wear on. Executed in a manner like none before them this season, the double leather belts served to play up the raw masculinity of the Public School collection (looks 7 & 9).
OVADIA & SONS: THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS
The collection: Despite Ovadia & Sons mingling amongst the numerous ranks of American menswear labels purveying the no-frills New Yorker 'tude, twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia demarcate the brand with their keen eye for details. Introducing the cinched waist (looks 2, 22 & 25) for men this season (also seen on the Christian Dada, Givenchy and Bottega Veneta runways) and the skinny scarf styled as a wide choker (look 24), the Ovadia brothers kicked off and wound down their show with the subtle reminder of their artistry. Sandwiched inbetween, was a modest outing from the designers this fall/winter 2016 — the ubiquitous flight jacket was updated in camo (look 14) but reissued in shearling (look 19; from FW15), and tinkering with the length of hemlines dominated the 30-look collection.
Something you might have missed: A glimpse of the Ovadia ingenuity in the form of a pinstripe wool topcoat belted at the waist with strips of grosgrain, refined with a utilitarian edge — see the handy flight jacket pencil pocket stitched on the sleeve (look 3).
Buro loves: The silk-satin fabric fixation in the form of overcoats (look 29), tunics (look 28), and trousers under a relaxed robe-like outer (look 7) — feeding our current bedroom-to-boardroom obssession.
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