Best shows from NYFW SS17 Day 5: Victoria Beckham, Altuzarra & Prabal Gurung
New York Fashion Week
VICTORIA BECKHAM: VELVET DREAMS
The collection: When it comes to Victoria Beckham, it's hard not to make references to her past; those mini body-con dresses and platform-wearing days are so entrenched in our minds. But as the seasons go, that memory starts to fade as she pursues silhouettes of looser structures not just on the runway, but through her own wardrobe. For SS17, that sense of ease radiated from distressed silk pants (looks 7 & 21), deconstructed knit dresses that revealed soft bra tops (looks 15, 23, 26 & 31), and slouchy crossbody bags for an elegant nomad (looks 25, 27, 30, 32 & 33). The standout pieces of the season came in crushed velvet, proving that the fabric does have its place outside of home furnishing and can still look completely appropriate for the season (looks 2, 3, 6, 7, 9, 20, 25, 29 & 32) when given Beckham's sophisticated cuts.
Lesson learnt: Fashion knows no boundaries. Boots for summer? We're in. Knee-high boot made out of canvas and leather were sent out on the runway with many ensembles, keeping things light, fresh and cool.
What you might have missed: The beauty looks — one clean and simple, while the others with a focus on emerald and cobalt bold eyes — were all created out of Beckham's new beauty capsule collection with Estee Lauder available worldwide from October 1.
ALTUZARRA: FOREVER YOUNG AT HEART
The collection: Film has always been a huge source of inspiration for fashion wunderkind Joseph Altuzarra. For his SS17 outing, he turned to David Lynch's 1990 dark comedy, Wild at Heart, for a shot of kitschy energy, transforming disparate thoughts into one cohesive idea. In his mind, snakeskin, gingham and glittery cherry prints work together, and on the runway this idea materialises perfectly in an indescribable way (look 3), and so do other unexpected print mixes (looks 1, 13, and 21). For the evening, tiered organza dresses with the recurring cherry and pineapple motifs spelled tropical romance (looks 35 & 36).
I spy: Bra tops are set to become a trend, turning up earlier at Victoria Beckham and on the Altuzarra runway. Now is probably a good time to start hitting the gym.
Favourite look: The cherry silk bra top paired with a traditional pencil skirt that's given a not-so-traditional denim effect treatment — how wonderfully luxe and playful all at the same time (look 4).
PRABAL GURUNG: I AM WOMAN
The collection: At first glance, Prabal Gurung's spring offering is physically empowering — sheer off-shoulder knits devulged the décolletage (look 2); car wash pleats (look 9) and thigh-high slits (look 15) played on textbook charm; and jackets with nothing underneath a roguish take on power dressing. But look closely and you'll glean that it's not all physical — it's also cerebral. Borrowing a page from American feminist journalist Gloria Steinem's book this SS17, Gurung seeked to empower: A quote on hope by American poet Emily Dickinson — "It's the thing with feathers that perches in the soul" — was needled across the tee of look 19. That flute-sleeve dress in look 15 screened with paragraphs of quotations and texts, is as much a divine knock-out on date night as a rousing read on a solo evening in.
What you might not know: Hours before his show, the designer payed homage to poet and civil rights activist Maya Angelou on Instagram (@prabalgurung) and women around the world, with an excerpt from a reading of Angelou's poem, Phenomenal Woman.
Buro loves: That Gurung interpreted female empowerment beyond the thread. That, and those scripted grosgrain ribbons floating off dresses (look 16) and button-downs (look 18). How poetically undone.
The best street style from New York Fashion Week SS17
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See all shows from New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2017.
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