Show reviews: Highlights from NYFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 8
New York Fashion Week
MICHAEL KORS: FLIGHT OF FANCY
The collection: 'Flirty freedom' were the key words at the Michael Kors Collection runway show and it was no surprise. The go-to designer for women on-the-go presented a delectable winter wardrobe that fluttered with lightness. Plumes seen on everything from trousers, to coats and dresses added a light and airy change to winter wear.
I spy: Despite unpredictable weather changes during NYFW, it seems that American designers aren't too worried about the deep freeze. Mini mod skirts, thigh-high slits and car wash pleats were hints to a leg-baring season come Fall. But never one for impracticality, Kors sent out an array of glamorous coverups to keep the chills at bay.
Shop now: Understanding the need for instant gratification, select looks from the FW16 runway show are already available for purchase online and at the Madison Avenue boutique in New York. Aptly titled 'Ready-to-Wear, Ready to Go', shop key runway pieces including shoes and bags from looks 11, 14, 36, 40, 41, 50 and 52 handpicked by Kors himself. For more details, click here.
DELPOZO: FUTURISTIC NATURE
The inspiration: Creative director, Josep Font was inspired by Fritz Lang's 1927 dystopian sci-fi film, Metropolis and Italian illustrator, Daria Petrilli's surreal digital artwork. The two elements came together to represent a collection that speaks of opposing natures — darkness and light, logic and passion, and the head and the heart.
The collection: Bustiers and round shoulder silhouettes (looks 22, 24 & 37) mimic the robotic shape of Maria in Lang's movie, enhanced by Font's signature architectural lines. Cool metallics in silver, gold and bronze recall the armour of the most iconic female robot in the history of film. Structure juxtaposed the sculptural and geometry with the abstract. Dramatic details such as voluminous cuts, bell sleeves and oversized bows continue to accentuate the romantic Delpozo look.
Lust-worthy: The nappa leather opera gloves 3D embroidered in a riot of leather appliqués and paillettes, befitting of a modern day princess. Even fairy godmother would approve.
BOSS: ON A CURVED PATH
The inspiration: After several seasons of experimenting with straight lines, Jason Wu was moved by curves.
The collection: Since arriving at the German brand five seasons ago, Wu has continuously sought to bring out femininity in the label, and it's no different this time around. The hourglass silhouette was featured on tops, jackets and dresses (looks 5, 6, 15 & 9). Contrasting fabrics — mesh, satin, felt and boucle — were fused together and they meandered through dresses, celebrating the curves of the female form (looks 1, 17, 31 & 32). Although dresses took center stage, there were cool suits (looks 23 & 24) — jackets with contrasting folds paired with baggy trousers — for the quietly confident woman.
Accessories: For FW16, the brand presented the new Boss Bespoke hobo that comes in a patchwork of suede, calf hair and brushed calfskin.
DKNY: '90S TOMBOY
The inspiration: As explained in the show notes, the collection was inspired by "strong girl bands from the '90s who were able to show sexuality with a tomboy feel, all the while making a statement through both style and messaging."
The collection: Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne continued where they left off from their first season by expanding on deconstruction, tailoring, pinstripes and injecting more of their Public School street aesthetic. While their first season came off a little bland, this season was anything but. The '90s aesthetic was everywhere. It was in the shoulder pads of deconstructed jackets (looks 2, 3, 5 & 14), the T-shirt and jeans with logos, 'Dicny' and 'Dicknee' which played on the enunciation of DKNY. Slip dresses (looks 38, 39, 40 & 41) provided the feminine balance in the collection. This season, the duo declared that they "just want to have fun", and they definitely achieved it.
Something you might have missed: Instead of giving showgoers just one more glimpse of their designs during the final walk-through, models came back out again wearing sweatshirts with hilarious new spins on DKNY. 'Dazed Kids New York', 'Don't Know New York', and 'Designers Know Nothing Yet' were a play on the brand's acronym. Models got to take home the sweatshirts after the show, prompting several showgoers to approach them for a closer look.
PROENZA SCHOULER: ALL TIED UP
The venue: Trust the coolest kids in American fashion, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez to secure the newly relocated Whitney Museum of American Art for their FW16 show. The designer duo was inspired by American painter, Frank Stella whose exhibition just so happened to end 10 days before the show.
The collection: The Proenza Schouler FW16 show was a lesson in two things. Firstly, the art of lacing up — a key decorative detail on shoulder cut-outs, across dresses and down the front and back of coats. Second, the art of control and release, where looks could be controlled (aka tightened) from the top with the help of the laces and release represented by the baggy silhouettes from waist down. Simply put: Snug on top, baggy down below. A brilliant play on proportions.
Try this now: The new way to carry your crossbody bags: Slung across your body and tucked under your pits. This is the cool girl's way of keeping pickpockets away stylishly. The show also introduced the new Hava bag available for purchase online here.
For all coverage of New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.
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