Show reviews: Highlights from NYFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 9
New York Fashion Week
RALPH LAUREN: MODERN ROMANTICISM
The inspiration: The collection was inspired by a woman who dares to be herself, highlighted by the entrepreneurial model Karlie Kloss who opened the show.
The collection: It was a classic Ralph Lauren collection filled with elegance and romance. Languid menswear-inspired pieces (looks 1, 2, 7 & 8), reminiscent of Annie Hall's iconic style, made up the daytime looks and were private country club appropriate. By night, the Ralph Lauren woman transforms into a rock diva with velvet jackets, Edwardian style shirts and shiny jacquard pants (looks 28, 29, 30 & 31). The last few looks were pure gold, and they looked like it too. As the dramatic mikado gown and skirt made their way down the runway, they glistened and rippled like liquid gold (looks 44 & 45).
Something you may have missed: He may be 76 years old, but the designer proved that he's still cooler than ever. He took his final bow wearing a tweed blazer, jeans and cowboy boots, and although he tripped, he still flashed a megawatt smile.
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION: NINETIES DREAMING
The collection: Francisco Costa is not the only designer in the recent to be enamoured by the '90s, but, this is one era that belongs to Calvin Klein if anyone at all. Think: Seductive Kate Moss ad campaigns catapulting CK into a household acronym. Epic. Reminisce in more ways than one with the boxy and loose suiting (bonus: extra wide lapels and contrast stitching — looks 2 & 22) and fur-trimmed everything from coats to dresses and jackets (looks 3, 6, 10, 26, & 28).
Buro loves: The animal prints. Yes, yet another '90s obssesion but this was not just a rehash — Costa opted for digital prints of coyote, lynx and skunk fur and patterning instead.
Favourite look: The window pane suit jacket and skirt combi (look 9). The menswear print was treated to a side of classic feminine allure with the racy thigh-high slit. Not just straight up sexy, the badass harness brought a well-measured dose of 'tude as well.
In the FROW: It-model and face of the brand Kendall Jenner, K-pop royalty CL, and actress slash CK watch and jewellery campaign star Zoë Kravitz commanded the prime seats.
MARC JACOBS: DARK ROMANCE
The inspiration: The designer was inspired by musician Keiji Haino's use of the Japanese concept of "Ma", typically translated as a pause or space. Haino has previously described his approach as "defying the notion that you can't create something from nothing."
The collection: Compared to the theatricality of last season's venue at the Ziegfeld Theater, Marc Jacobs opted for a distinctively pared down set for his fall 2016 show. The all-white runway at the Park Avenue Armory acted as a blank canvas and provided an extreme contrast for the nearly all-black collection. If a grown up Wednesday Addams was interested in fashion, she would tap this, stat. Layers of black pieces were rich in textural variety, from leather to fur to lace and tweed, the collection was a glam, almost-gothic take on the industry's favourite colour with a twist of harlequin (looks 1, 19, 27 & 50).
Something you might have missed: A near-anonymous — thanks to the heavy smokey eye and slicked back pinwheel curls — Lady Gaga (look 20) who lent her star power to the show by walking the runway.
For all coverage of New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.
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