Show reviews: Highlights from NYFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 5
New York Fashion Week
VICTORIA BECKHAM: LIGHTER GROUND
The collection: Victoria Beckham's FW16 collection was about sticking to what she does best, but not without new ideas. The fitted hourglass silhouettes that dominated the start of her career — before she experimented with boxier shapes — have been reworked and exaggerated (looks 8, 9, & 32), resulting in bubble skirts that created such bounce as the models went down the runway. The structured bustiers of the past is now softer and more relaxed. Autumnal colours, textures, plaids and checks when placed alongside each other on coats (looks 22, 26 & 29) gave breath and depth to the collection. The message of ease truly clicked when Beckham stepped out to take her bow in white sneakers instead of her usual stilettos.
Favourite look: The opening houndstooth bustier with cutouts look worn with a matching frayed wrap skirt that was grounded in Beckham's sexy-sophisticated aesthetic.
What you might have missed: As with all her shows, the good-looking Beckham family (David, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper) front row and center stole some of the attention away from the clothes. Harper, aged four, was looking absolutely adorable in her Wednesday Addams get-up.
PUBLIC SCHOOL: BORROWED FROM THE BOYS
The collection: Gender fluidity has had the industry abuzz for awhile now, namely the androgynous collections multiplying by the number with each menswear season. But the same cannot be said for the womenswear scene, until last night. Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow elevated their sporty, athleisure-loving chick to a downright tough as nails badass variety. Gone were the wrap skirts and ribbed dresses of SS16, replaced with longline short sleeved hoodies (look 8), utilitarian combat trousers (look 25) and oversized bermudas (look 16), all anchored by slouchy motorcyle boots. Swag.
Try this now: Never thought that the black leather moto jacket could look smart? Think again — worn zipped and layered over an oxford shirt, work the rock 'n' roll classic in the most debonair manner possible (look 14). Tip: Pick one that's fashioned from stiffer leather for hard lines and that structured look.
Worth the investment: Look 23. Score the suede moss green bomber for luxe outerwear that comes with a bonus off-the-rack lived-in effect.
I spy: The leather waist belts also seen on Public School's FW16 menswear runway, perfect for giving shirts and blouses a gamine edge. Thanks, boys.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG: DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY
The venue: Eschewing a traditional fashion show, Diane von Furstenberg held a presentation cum party at her Meatpacking District studio, complete with canapés, champagne and gorgeous faces. It went on for about an hour with her model squad — Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Lily Aldridge, Jourdan Dunn and Irina Shayk — dancing and grooving to the beats. Von Furstenberg herself was clearly having a ball and dragged unsuspecting guests — like actress-model Jaime King and editor Carine Roitfeld —up on stage to dance with her.
The collection: Inspired by the movement of dancing, the '70s disco glamour vibe came out strong in the sequinned looks (looks 22 & 32). Another nod to the '70s? The floor length versions of von Furstenberg's iconic wrap dress that exuded bohemian air. But with all the partying going on, one wonders if anyone was even paying attention to the clothes.
Something you might have missed: The direct-to-consumer business model has dominated conversations this fashion week, and von Furstenberg is among the players exploring this approach. Although shoppers would typically have to wait about six months for the collection to hit the stores, some of the clothes showed at the presentation — including the slip dress worn by Gigi Hadid (look 23) — are already available for sale on their website.
EDUN: WOMAN AT WORK
The collection: Designer Danielle Sherman has always managed to work within ready-to-wear boundaries in the truest sense of the term — safe and wearable, but yet never boring. Spliced fabrics were a key theme for FW16, giving well-loved classics the Edun stamp of individuality. Coats and blousons featured ultra-wide ribbed collars (looks 5 & 6), pinstripe suit jackets bore appliquéd creping (look 15) and slip dresses displayed off-the-shoulder multi-straps and raw hems (looks 1 & 2). In a nutshell, it's a collection designed by a woman geared to stoke the feminine sartorial desires, just like Victoria Beckham and Diane von Furstenberg above.
Buro loves: The blanket-like outerwear in look 14. An accessory — and a brilliant way to stave off the cold — much seen on the streets during the menswear fashion weeks, this is one bandwagon we're all aboard.
Something you might have missed: The quirky mix of supersized buttons on knits (looks 12 & 13).
PRABAL GURUNG: NATURE'S ELEMENTS
The collection: Heavy on fur and feather motifs, Prabal Gurung's FW16 collection was inspired by white winterscapes, Lord Byron's poem She Walks in Beauty and Henry Rosseau's painting Woman Walking in an Exotic Forest. These guided him in dreaming up a poetic image of his muse taking a long walk through an enchanted forest. But clearly, judging from the thigh-high slit dresses and skirts (looks 3, 8 & 37), this was no brutal hike. It was perhaps a journey to the lover waiting at the end of the route.
Hair: The models' hair was first given a dishevelled twist on both sides before being pulled together in a low ponytail — a nice break from all the sleek ponytails we've been seeing.
Buro loves: It was Valentine's Day and the air of romance was suitably delightful. The show ended on an ethereal note with a white gown featuring cutouts at the shoulders and dazzling Swarovski crystal embellishments. It left us enthralled as it flowed down the runway.
For all coverage of New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.
- Image: Courtesy of DVF
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