Stefano Pilati is a master storyteller. But instead of crafting images out of words, he tells his tale with the cut of his jackets, the meticulous selection of his fabrics, and astutely, through the emotional cues delivered through colour. And for spring/summer 2016, the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture narrative was one of an effortless summer breeze.
Like guards heralding a royal procession... the show opened with black monochromatic looks — a striking contrast to the all-white runway — before unveiling an elegant and fluid collection marked by blown-up Madras applied to billowing coats, draping asymmetric blousons, and elongated scarves worn nonchalantly with one end tucked into blazers.
While Pilati played with proportions... by juxtaposing wide-cut trousers (cinched at the ankle with a tab-button fastener) against fitted single or double-breasted blazers, the real heroes were the extremely light fabrications: Transeasonal cashmere, super fine Lanificio Zegna wools, luscious silks, and luxurious Japanese cotton. So light were the fabrics that, if you look closely, you'll notice the silhouette of a knee-length sock pulled high under trousers.
And check out the footwear... constructed from eco sustainable metal-free leather. Ensembles were anchored by boots and slides accented with fringe detailing around the ankle; and routinely, presented in a contrast colour for a robust masculine appeal.
Our favourite look was... the madras DB layered under a dusty pink single-breasted blazer (complete with Pilati's signature peak lapels finished with intricately hand-sewn Milanese button-holes, of course) paired casually with a loose grey trouser. A clever interplay of textures, colours and silhouettes all rolled into one.
Ending with ethereal looks in full white... the story was complete. The Ermenegildo Zegna Couture man announced his arrival in bold blacks, ensconced on a holiday in dreamy summer hues, before returning in pure ensembles to underscore the collections construction details and diverse permutations: floating trench coats, expertly tailored jackets, and multi-pocket gilets. Bravo.
Click on the slideshow below to view the full collection.
To see all our coverage of Milan Men's Fashion Week SS16, click here.