Best shows from MFW SS17 Day 5: Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Salvatore Ferragamo and Missoni
Milan Fashion Week
MARNI: UTILITARIAN CHIC
The collection: If you think designers only create clothes to make you look good with no consideration of functionality, Consuelo Castiglione proves you wrong today. Marni's SS17 collection was a lesson in experimental utility that had editors furiously jotting down notes. Shirtdresses (predicted to be the summer dress of choice) featured a generous helping of pockets on the front, sleeves and even cuffs (looks 15 & 28); and cargo pants and boiler suits were given a quirky twist with oversized pockets strategically located on the thighs (looks 1, 24 & 29). Clearly, the Marni woman is always on the go, go, go and would much rather tackle her busy schedule hands free.
Buro loves: Who needs bags when you have supersized pockets belted at the waist that can hold all your daily needs? In fact, who would have thought bum bags could be so sartorially appealing? Consuelo Castiglione did, and we're convinced.
I spy: No longer confined to the kitchen or gardening, the apron is spring/summer 2017's hottest new trend and most wanted item. At Marni, we loved how each apron was loosely tied around the waist using nautical rope (a decorative detail that ran through the collection) and at some instances, featured zips undone for ease of movement (looks 4 & 10).
DOLCE & GABBANA: TROPICANA ITALIANO
The collection: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have never been ones to take fashion too seriously. This season, the designers were in the mood for a fiesta. The fashion festivity started with street dancing followed by a parade of signature Dolce & Gabbana looks (that was not at all tropical-inspired) decked out and decorated in carnival style. One also can't help but notice that the brand served up its own version of the biggest trends to dominate the fashion industry: Logo T-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, pool slides and slip-ons.
Something you might have missed: Accessories — heels, bags and crowns — featured blinking LED lights mimicking carnival lights, or reminiscent of LA Lights sneakers if you were a '90s kid.
Front row: It was a star-studded millennial affair at Dolce & Gabbana as Cameron Dallas (the heartthrob that drew a hoard of screaming female fans to the show), Sofia Richie, Rafferty Law (Jude Law's son), Luka Sabbat and Sarah Snyder (Jayden Smith's girlfriend) sat together front row like high school's coolest kids.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: TECHNICAL ATHLEISURE
The collection: Still without a creative director since Massimiliano Giornetti left, Salvatore Ferragamo's spring/summer 2017 collection was helmed by Fulvio Rigoni, head of womenswear design. The show saw two clear themes: Sportswear and florals addressed individually. Athleisure pieces such as parkas were issued in technical fabrics (looks 2 & 4), while floral dresses were executed with cocoon sleeves — another tell tale sign that volume is a key trend next spring.
Trend alert: Spotted at Jil Sander, Marni and Salvatore Ferragamo, plissé pleating is the new texture du jour of SS17.
I spy: Sock booties and flatform sandals will be making their way into your wardrobes very soon. The famous 1937 Rainbow wedge — originally designed by Ferragamo himself for Judy Garland in 1937 — was reintepreted into strappy flatform sandals. Ruching and drawstring accents (also seen at Marni and Sportmax) are next season's approach to free movement and flexibity.
MISSONI: COLUMNS OF COLOUR
The collection: When one thinks of Missoni, the iconic zigzag weave and a kaleidoscope of colours immediately springs to mind. Which is why, for spring/summer 2016, it was so refreshing to see designer Angela Missoni adopt a slightly different approach. Two words: Colour-blocked columns. In place of the dizzying array of multi-coloured stripes of collections past, models stepped out in classic columns sporting bold horizontal stripes (for example, looks 13 and 21); long-sleeve collared tops layered under tube tops (looks 10, 14 and 19); and sleeveless floor-length cardigans (looks 16, 17 and 22).
For beach lovers: Missoni presented teeny-tiny bikinis (looks 24, 27 and 28) in muted stripes of black, white and ochre — either as a workout incentive, or reward for those who have already spent many hours hitting the gym. You better work.
Favourite look: That sunshine yellow top layered under a colour-blocked strapless dress in look 20. Colourful, cohesive, and totally covetable.
The best street style from Milan Fashion Week SS17
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