Show reviews: Highlights from MFW fall/winter 2016 — Day 5
Milan Fashion Week
MARNI: MASTERS OF PROPORTION
The collection: Details, details, details. Prints, cuts and fabrics were designed for maximum impact. Textiles were rich, but unlike anything we've seen before. What looked like brocade on Prince of Wales checks (looks 25 & 26) was actually sequin embroidery upon closer inspection. Proportions were exaggerated — larger than life waistbands embellished with contrasting oversized buttons (looks 14, 15 & 17), while paillettes came in extra large servings (looks 26, 27 & 37). Definitely ascribing to the motto: "Go big or go home".
Buro loves: The opening knitted cape look; cut short in the front and trailing long at the back.
Something you might have missed: The much talked about balloon-sleeved ensembles were actually separate accessories fastened on with trailing ribbons. Genius.
DOLCE & GABBANA: FABULOUS FANTASY
The venue: Guests had a ball reliving their childhood fantasies when greeted with iconic scenes and props pulled straight out of Disney's most popular fairy tales. From Snow White and The Seven Dwarfs' poisonous apples, to the enchanted rose jar from Beauty and the Beast, as well as Cinderella's golden pumpkin carriage, attendees felt like they had walked right into the pages of a story book.
The inspiration: There was no second-guessing that the Dolce & Gabbana show was fairy tale-themed after receiving a invite that played A Dream Is A Wish Your Heart Makes from Disney's Cinderella when opened. Like fairy godmothers that swooped in to save the day, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana presented a collection that was fit for new-gen princesses. Inspired by Disney's princesses, the FW16 show was a spectacle of signature Dolce & Gabbana ensembles embroidered and appliquéd with sequins, diamantes, pearls and iconic fairy tale motifs. Think: Snow White's magic mirrors, Beauty and the Beast's talking tea cups, and Cinderella's sewing swallows.
Buro loves: Given the theme, we were expecting to see a showcase of ballroom gowns, but were pleasantly surprised that there were none in sight. Just like a fairy tale with a plot twist, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana designed a collection that was whimsically wearable for the modern day woman. And as for Prince Charming, who really needs one when you can be your own knight in shining armour dressed in military jackets and cropped trousers (looks 1, 18 & 45)?
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: RAINBOW CONNECTION
The inspiration: Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti drew inspiration from the art movement of the 1920s and 1930s as characterised by the use of decorative geometric forms.
The collection: Geometric shapes such as stripes, houndstooth, zig-zags and checkerboards bursting with rainbow colours was the crux of the FW16 collection. Playful yet elegant, the clever use of scalloping, and tiers of accordian pleats (looks 2 & 17), created dimension and volume in an unexpected way.
Buro loves: The car wash pleat trend taken to new dimensions through the use of zippers (looks 6 & 8) providing the wearer with endless styling possibilities.
MISSONI: WINTER IN TECHNICOLOUR
The collection: In an explosion of Paddle Pop brights, Angela Missoni brought forth a fall 2016 outing that married the house's two iconic design tropes: The zig-zag pattern and stripes. For the collection's standout pieces — winter coats set apart by the brand's signature boho aesthetic — checks were called upon for a change, all accessorised with either chunky beanies or crocheted skinny scarves that trailed down the runway.
Favourite looks: The arsenal of statement outerwear — props to Missoni for enlivening the sensible crisp weather staple. Throw-overs, classic trenches, and capes took on the colour wheel (looks 4, 9 & 12), but the pieces that really packed a punch were the coats with a strong basal tone (looks 6 & 23).
Try it now: Layering socks with peep-toe heels. Practicality in winter that also presents an opportunity for colour-blocking.
For all our coverage of Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2016, click here.
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