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Best shows from LFW SS17 Day 3: Mary Katrantzou, Topshop Unique, Peter Pilotto, Mulberry and more

London Fashion Week

Best shows from LFW SS17 Day 3: Mary Katrantzou, Topshop Unique, Peter Pilotto, Mulberry and more
Anya Hindmarch plays with geometry, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi is beautifully bewitching, Mary Katrantzou becomes an illusionist, Topshop Unique hightails it to the '80s, Peter Pilotto dabbles in child's play, Mulberry rewrites the (school) rules and Paul Smith presents an English summer

ANYA HINDMARCH: SHAPING UP
The inspiration: Anya Hindmarch was inspired by the relationship between geometry and art, and the starting point was a simple circle which the designer was intrigued by. Precision, mathematical calculus and complex formations shaped the outing as a whole.

The collection:
With an array of sorbet brights, Hindmarch created a fresh palette for spring. Neoprene coats appliquéd with geometric leather detailing (looks 7, 19 & 21) were the standouts in this colourfully sweet collection. Also bringing out new bag styles, the Stack (look 3: A soft, compartmentalised sling), the Vere Barrel (look 18: A fuss-free day-to-day duffle tote) and the mini Vere (look 21: A petite crossbody) are sure to become street style hits next season. Not to be missed were the shoes — from slides (looks 14, 17 & 32) to pointed midi-heels (looks 1, 2 & 18) and sneakers (looks 34, 36 & 39) — enlivened by the very same geometric leatherwork.

The set:
One of the best set designs this fashion week, guests were seated along the circumference of a concave circle, with the models ascending from a few feet below — going through a secret passageway that slid in and out. 

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI: SOMETHING WICKED THIS WAY COMES
The collection: Of occults and witchcraft, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi bewitched with the dark and sensuous in their spring outing. Think: Not the fictional Hogwarts, but more realistic like the famous tales of Salem. Stars were the leitmotif this SS17; from astrological constellations splashed across dresses and gowns (looks 12, 33, 38 & 39) to the Star of David embroidered on tops and ruffle sleeve shirt dresses (looks 2, 5 & 15). The way in which the design pairing incorporated haphazard ruching (looks 16 & 34) and intensely frayed hems (looks 14 & 15) only served to play up the raw, hypnotic energy that floated the entire collection.

The beauty looks:
Overseen by makeup artist Val Garland, models were transformed into walking floral offerings with real blooms creeping up over foreheads, cheeks and all over the décolletage (looks 6, 18 29 & 33). Simply enchanting.

Favourite look:
The sugary cotton candy pink sheer top with an abundance of ruching, tucked into a sequin embellished uneven hem skirt — paired with white lace socks and elevated by leather platforms (look 24). Intensely saccharine, and wonderously beguiling.

MARY KATRANTZOU: NOW YOU SEE IT, NOW YOU DON'T
The collection: Watching a Mary Katrantzou show is like a constant loop of the final moments on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire — you just can't turn your eyes away. More so this spring 2017 as London's reigning queen of prints revealed a pastiche of optical illusions, kicking off with prismatic waves and sculptures, motifs and symbols native to Greece (looks 1, 2, 3, 4, 7 & 12). As the Athens-born designer took a step back in time and borrowed from the heroes of Greek ancestory, here are but a few of history's most-famed allegories immortalised in molten sequin shifts (looks 23, 24 & 26) and expert embroidery (looks 27, 28 & 30).

Something you might have missed: The storied medallion — reincarnated as
tromp l'oeil belts (looks 15 & 16) — used not to decorate the necks of celebrated Olympians, but as a visual trick to cinch the waist.

Try it now: Why layer a white tee under your slips when you can go print-on-print (look 19)? Leandra Medine of
The Man Repeller will be all over this.  

TOPSHOP UNIQUE: BACK TO THE EIGHTIES
The inspiration: With a focus on individualism and punk, Topshop Unique took inspiration from English visual artist Linder Sterling and London in the '80s. Tea dresses (looks 10 & 18), high shine glam (looks 8, 26 & 27) and risqué party garb (looks 32, 34, 35 & 36) were the order of the day.

Buro loves:
 But of course, it wouldn't be an '80s themed collection without animal prints. From tops to skirts (look 26 & 28), jackets to dresses (look 7 and 9) and even the footwear (looks 28 &29), zebra prints are back — and in a big way. Looking to make an unforgettable impression? Get decked head to toe in spring's new monochrome à la look 5.

See now, buy now:
Pieces from the catwalk collection is now on sale on Topshop.com, with free worldwide shipping till 20 September. What's that? It's your credit card calling. 

PETER PILOTTO: CHILD'S PLAY
The collection: Light years away from last season's regal offering fit for the The Snow Queen, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos stole a page from the childrens' colouring books this spring. Fluid champagne-hued frocks (looks 4, 6 & 8); pastel flounce-hem crepe dresses (looks 9, 11 & 13); and candy-infused coordinates (looks 31, 33, 35 & 36) imbued with childlike doodles and the playful spirit of gingham (looks 16, 17, 19 & 20) — all executed with enough fairytale flair to put the Brothers Grimm to shame.

Buro loves:
The neon crocheted detailing and endearing motifs scattered across more than half the collection. Entirely PG13 and parental approved.

Worth the investment:
Those nymph-like lace slip dresses (looks 4 & 7) that'll ensure the summer parties don't start untill you walk in. 

MULBERRY: REWRITING THE RULES 
The collection: Inspired by uniforms, Johnny Coca mixed and juxtaposed classic collegiate stripes for a rebellious collection that was nothing short of high school cool. Which, could also be in part due to Lotta Volkova's stylistic chops — the woman behind the geek chic looks at Vetements and Balenciaga. Signature stripes printed across fluid silks and knits (look 17 & 19) gave a new twist to all that is old school, and the Scottish kilt reinterpreted into shining silk dresses (look 14) came in extremely contemporary proportions. Luxurious velvet pieces (look 26, 27 & 28) were treated to a slick, wet look, while ruffles on oversized librarian checks (look 40 and 43) tinged the collection with an era bygone.

Something you might have missed:
The oversized bag trend is definitely coming back. Coca's paraded Mulberry's new outsize Bayswater Piccadilly (look 14, 20 & 21) as a season update to a timeless classic.

The set:
 The heritage label got the fashion pack to head out of central London towards South East — with Coca's second show for Mulberry staged at a disused printing factory that was rustic, industrial and oh-so-appropriate for the utilitarian collection. 

PAUL SMITH: SWEET FLORALS
The inspiration: Exploring the idea of friendship, companionship and the ritualistic use of floral garlands as a gesture, Sir Paul Smith's latest offering was his version of an ethereal English garden — right down to the white and pink blooms that speckled the catwalk.

The collection:
Vibrant but not overly feminine, floral prints appeared to be either hand-drawn (looks 4, 9, & 13) or woven onto cloth (look 23 & 26), with a focus on craftsmanship and tailoring. But, do we ever expect less from the notably hands-on designer? The collection flowed with ease not just because of its cohesiveness, but by the way the fabrics draped (look 34 & 36) — giving the body shape in just all the right places.

Something you might have missed:
The arrival of your new summer espadrilles. Adorned with Smith's new Artist Stripe, an  assemblage of colours inspired by expressionist art.

Related story: The best street style from London Fashion Week SS17

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See all shows from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2017.  


Source: http://www.buro247.sg/fashion/collections/lfw-ss17-jw-anderson-simone-rocha-versus-versace.html

Ievan Darwin Andrea Sim

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