Best shows from LFW SS17 Days 1 & 2: J.W.Anderson, Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha and Versus Versace
London Fashion Week
J.W.ANDERSON: ROYAL REGALIA
The collection: If there is one designer who can achieve cool creative quirk through experimental randomness, it's Jonathan Anderson. At his SS17 runway show, incoherence was at its best and the collection's main focus was clearly on dresses. From minis to midis, form-fitting to free flowing, or tie-dyed (looks 22 & 33) to lace-ups (looks 23 & 37), there were plenty of effortless options with a tinge of complexity. For the less lady-like fans, you'll find yourself drawn to the royalty-inspired pieces (think Henry VIII) such as the quilted shirts with Tudor-inspired sleeves (looks 1, 7 & 32).
I spy: Irregular handkerchief hems will be next season's hemline of choice.
Favourite look: Linen table placemats haphazardly sewn together to make a dress (look 4) is proof of the wizardry that Anderson creates.
EMILIA WICKSTEAD: A DELICATE ROMANCE
The collection: Architect Frank Lloyd Wright's artful and sophisticated mid-century interiors and Wickstead's obsession with 'love hotels' set the tone for her spring/summer 2017 collection. The dresses showcased were delicate with a soft silhouette in printed floral cottons, circular lace and gentle sheer silks — all to create a dreamy collection. The burst of dotted patterns (looks 33 & 35), an inspiration taken from American artist Alexander Calder, added some playfulness to the already girly dresses.
Favourite look: The embellished soft pink skirt paired with a beautifully pleated tangerine top made it a sweet combination of youthful attitude and an appreciation for luxury (look 30).
Something you might have missed: The use of Swarovski crystal embellishments on the back of Wickstead's ultra feminine dresses that further elevated each piece to new levels.
SIMONE ROCHA: PRETTY DISTORTED
The inspiration: A trip to the National Gallery of Ireland to view the photo exhibition of Jackie Nickerson was where Simone Rocha took inspiration for her SS17 collection. The exhibition titled 'Uniform' displayed photographs of South African agricultural workers juxtaposed against 18th century paintings by Irish artist, William John Leech.
The collection: Held at the Southwark Cathedral, you couldn't help but initially think that the Irish designer had sent out a collection of communion, christening and bridal gowns (looks 1 to 11). But as the runway show progressed, we found ourselves looking at her archetypal sheer lace dresses, oversized coats and loose unconstructed silhouettes. While it may all seem too well expected and familiar from Rocha, it was the exquisite use of textile and embroidery that left us enchanted. There was broderie anglaise that she created for the collection (looks 10, 11 & 16) and the plastic trench coat-cum-dress (look 24) intricately embroidered with florals.
Buro loves: Coats deconstructed and attached to Rocha's signature lace dresses (looks 4, 6, 21 & 30) and trench coats designed to be worn on one shoulder and off the other; and then held together with a belt (looks 14 & 26).
VERSUS VERSACE: COOL ATTITUDE
The collection: With Donatella Versace now helming the diffusion line solo since the departure of former creative director Anthony Vaccarello, the collection was nothing short of cool and edgy. A military and utility-inspired collection, biker jackets (look 1, 8 & 22), neoprene dresses with metallic pleatings (look 34 & 36), and ripped denim (look 37 & 40) were designed with wearability in mind.
I spy: A wide belt worn as a bra — a daring and new way to double up.
Front-row: Serayah from the hit television show Empire, models Jourdan Dunn and Winnie Harlow, fashion's IT couple Gigi Hadid and Zayn Malik were all in attendance.
Related story: The best street style from London Fashion Week SS17
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