Highlights from Paris Couture Fall 2015: Day 4
Bold, brilliant, beautiful
Maison Margiela: Gunning for Galliano
Haute couture, the high artistry of fashion, is supposed to inspire. Which is why, when you add the crazy mind of John Galliano into the mix, the results are always fascinating. Conjuring up fantastical creations that experiment with dramatic shapes and volumes, Galliano started with monochromatic shifts before challenging the audience with a furry and metallic green skirt paired with an otherwise sombre black jacket, a hessian dress embroidered with sequins, and sensationally, a voluminous closing 'bridal' look fringed with bulbous plastic tubing.
Elie Saab: Evergreen elegance
While Galliano pushed and questioned the established notions of beauty, Elie Saab stayed true to his design signature: Elegant floor-sweeping dresses intricately embroidered and appliquéd with metallic beads and sequins. Gold was the colour du jour — the final exit was a breathtaking crinoline gown finished with a demure golden veil — but it was his more off-kilter pieces that caught our attention. Favourites include the diaphanous pastel blue dress with fur-fringed shoulders and the beaded merlot full-length romper with a billowing cape. Superb.
Jean Paul Gaultier: Transcontinental alchemy
Brittany and Breton stripes were the scarlet threads that ran throughout Gaultier's latest couture collection. Opening looks saw liberal applications of the theme by way of mariner tops, graphic tights and sailor caps; yet, in a unique twist, it was his more Oriental interpretations of the theme — an unusual East meets West alchemy of coastal France with Chinese imperial head dress — that really piqued our interest. Think: Mariner stripes on ministerial Guan-inspired hats contrasted with golden robes fastened with a fur stole. But nothing could top the surprise finale: A flat-fronted circular gown crafted from a patchwork of skins and fur. Inspiration knows no bounds.
Fendi: Fur foray
It was a fur extravaganza at Fendi's first ever haute couture show and, as expected, it was an elaborate display of the brand's luxurious pelts. The 'haute fourrure' show by the Roman house was a fur-only collection of capes, coats, suits and stoles crafted exquisitely from mink, fox, sable and chinchilla to name but a few. And just to demonstrate the rich talent of its ateliers, they were embroidered with feathers and floral appliqué.
Although there was no official inspiration or reference for the collection, judging by the grandeur of the chosen location (the regal Théâtre de Champs-Élysees), this was clearly a celebration of Karl Lagerfeld who celebrates his 50th anniversary with the brand this year.
To see all our coverage of Paris Couture Fall 2015, click here.
- Image: Imax Tree
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