Best shows from MMFW SS18: Giorgio Armani, Fendi and Palm Angels
Wham, bam, thank you ma'am — and just like that, it's the last day of Milan men's fashion week. Designers that made headlines on the third and final day include Giorgio Armani who sent out boys peacocking in peacock blue, Silvia Fendi who delivered a covetable collection of corporate escapism, and Francesco Ragazzi for his unique spin on American surf culture at Palm Angels.
Listen to the audio review by editor-in-chief Norman Tan to hear what Silvia Fendi had to say about the return of the necktie in her men's spring/summer 2018 collection.
And finally, as the fashion cohort migrates from Milan to Paris, stay tuned to Buro 24/7 Singapore for daily audio reviews as Norman continues to report direct from the European runways.
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GIORGIO ARMANI: MADE IN ARMANI
Designer: Giorgio Armani
All you need to know: Opening look of an ecru full-length double-breasted trench coat that was more kaftan than rainwear. Love. Then halfway through the show, another generously cut trench (this time tightly belted) was so weightless it fluttered like a dress. Gorgeous. As with all Giorgio Armani shows, there was a parade of bankable soft-shouldered suits in shades of navy and grey, which is why these long flowing silhouettes were so refreshing. Other highlights include an innovative cardigan-shirt hybrid that was woolen at the front, but constructed from cotton poplin at the back. Brilliant. Also, a geometric long-sleeve knit in navy and blue tucked into slim-cut trousers, as well as a vivid procession of broken suits paired with clean shirting in shades of teal, blue and purple. Peacocking in peacock blue — it's going to be a thing.
FENDI: RETURN OF THE TIE
Designer: Silvia Venturini Fendi
All you need to know: For fall/winter 2017, Silvia Fendi sent out colour-blocked knit pullovers and headbands emblazoned with words such as 'LOVE', 'FANTASTIC' and 'YES' — reminding us that fashion is meant to be fun and, let's be honest, also taking a cheeky dig at the abbreviated vocabulary of the digital millennial. For spring/summer 2018, this joy and spontaneity was still present, but now woven into the collection by way of ordinary objects illustrated by artist Sue Tilley (such as cup of coffee) appliquéd to the back of jackets. Wide ties were worn nonchalantly at the neck — though styled with a tie bar to showcase the dangling long tail — and madras suiting carried off with suspenders and transparent slickers for a modern update to business attire. Cast in sophisticated shades of biscuit, blush pink, and mint green, it was a collection inspired by the 1980s film American Psycho, updated with sportswear staples such as caps (leather brims embossed with the maison's double-F logo) and silk shirts (decorated with holiday motifs) for a hint of the weekend. In summary, it was corporate escapism with generous lashings of irreverence.
PALM ANGELS: BLACK SUN
Designer: Francesco Ragazzi
All you need to know: An artistic director turned fashion photographer turned designer, Francesco Ragazzi already brings a unique design ethos to Palm Angels; combine this with his Italian heritage and fascination with the laissez-faire attitude of skaters, and you get a potent mix of street wear reinterpreted with a Milanese tailoring sensibility. With a show set resembling a construction site — complete with a dump truck emblazoned with 'Palm Angels' and a pile of black sand dominating the centre of the venue — models stepped out to a soundtrack blasting Gucci Mane mixed with a cover of Radiohead's 'Creep', sporting checked suits, duster coats, and kimono-style shirts tightly cinched with nylon belts with long dangling straps. Entitled 'Black Sun', it was Ragazzi's take on LA surf culture, and we saw the references by way of scuba suits, black bucket hats, and caps finished with neck bibs for protection against the sun. However, it was the final procession of graphic tracksuits (the brand's bread-and-butter) in a myriad of rainbow hues that had the audience whipping out their phones in a frenzy. Favourite item? The Palm Angels x Suicoke sandals. #Want
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