Best shows from PFW FW17 Day 4: Loewe, Undercover and Yohji Yamamoto
Editor-in-chief Norman Tan reports back from Paris with an audio review of the best shows from day four, including an eclectic collection from Loewe, a show-stopping performance by Undercover, and the tried-and-tested formula of gathered black ensembles from Yohji Yamamoto. Have a listen. Scroll through the gallery. Stay informed and inspired.
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LOEWE: YOU CAN'T TAKE IT WITH YOU
Designer: Jonathan William Anderson
Synopsis: In my opinion, you know you've watched a good fashion show when you can't pin down one definitive overarching theme. Held in the Maison de l'UNESCO on the Left Bank, the show venue was pitch black to start; the only light illuminating the space were spotlights focused on hanging orchids and potted flowers scattered around the room. When the models emerged — sashaying to an orchestral accompaniment — they appeared almost cinematic: Large brimmed hats printed with a loaf of bread bearing the iconic Loewe logo atop large patchworked dresses; a dramatic floral appliqué frock with off-the-shoulder puff sleeves; and, my personal favourite, a peplum tan leather jacket worn with a chocolate leather skirt bouncing with exaggerated ruffles. Other highlights include one-shoulder silk dresses that looked like they were layered over a full-length black dress, but were in fact, just one piece; and the subtle scarlet thread of polka dots and checks woven through the collection on trousers, sheer turtlenecks, and generously cut coats. 'You can't take it with you' read the miniature booklet left on the show seats (displaying photographs of Lionel Wendt that were also hanging around the runway), but in an age of see-now-buy-now, having to wait is half the fun. The desire is real.
UNDERCOVER: PERFORMANCE ART
Designer: Jun Takahashi
Synopsis: Held in the Salle Wagram, with red velvet curtains opening and closing to demarcate different acts, Jun Takahashi's fall/winter 2017 collection was more of a performance than a fashion show. Clothes were of costume proportions, starting with floor-length knit gowns in baby blue, canary yellow and light green finished with amorphous contrast sleeves in ruffles and fur; followed by body suits accessorised with long feathers bent into masks and sprouting out of the back like pheasant tails. There was a chapter with skull caps and heavily ruffled coats, but my favourite ensembles were the long layered robes topped off with sculptural headpieces that reminded me of The Flying Fun — something we've already seen at Jacquemus earlier in the week.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO: GOTH NINJA
Designer: Yohji Yamamoto
Synopsis: When one thinks of Yohji Yamamoto, one thinks of billowing black coats and dresses — generously cut — and artistically gathered and ruched. Fair enough because that's the winning formula that has propelled this iconic Japanese house to global recognition. So when Mr Yamamoto sent out yet another black collection of flowing outerwear, wide pant suits, and oversized shirt dresses with dramatic pleating, it wasn't "boring" (as overhead from a fellow front row show attendee) but commendable. He knows what he stands for and sticks to his guns: 'Goth ninja' as colloquially and endearingly referred to on the streets. Gone were last season's black police hats and strappy (almost body-con) tops; in their place, brightly coloured stockings for a pop of colour under asymmetric coats, as well as the consistent use of black key tags (the same chain of four black key tags sent to guests as show invitations) as head piece accessories.
SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Stay tuned, and come back daily, as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go audio reviews of the best shows from Paris Fashion Week for the fall/winter 2017 season.
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