Best shows from NYFW FW18: Coach 1941, Rosie Assoulin and Boss Woman

New York Fashion Week: Day 6

Best shows from NYFW FW18: Coach 1941, Rosie Assoulin and Boss Woman

Text: Veronika Bondarenko

Coach 1941 chooses darkness, Rosie Assoulin celebrates the art of marbling and Boss Woman does minimalism right

The collection: What happens when you mix prairie girls with city goths? Apparently, fringe, studded leather and long frocks with patterns in dark florals (looks 1 and 2). With pieces like the black fringed leather skirt (look 44) and suede coats (looks 29 and 31), head designer Stuart Vevers' signature love for all things western came through on the runway. Hard looks such as cowboy jackets and black leather pants (look 7) were put side to side with pretty patterned, lace-tiered dresses (looks 9 and 20) in prints inspired by the goths of the 1990s, making for an unlikely but happy pairing.

Something you might have missed: Every single model wore a drop-down silver necklace loaded up with horseshoes, locks and other dangling pendants.

Try this now: Add the long black ribbon worn as necklaces or belts (looks 1, 3 and 9) to your own outfits for an instant bohemian touch.

The collection: The inspiration behind Rosie Assoulin's fall line was a fortunate accident. Inspiration struck when she stumbled upon a book about marbling techniques in Italy and Japan and as they say, the rest is history. Seeing that the Brooklyn-born designer gives us works of art that masquerade as clothes every year, it turns our that 2018 is no exception, with her bright silks, sculpted silhouette gowns and fanciful designs with Swarovski crystals. But even with such intricate details, it was the marbling technique that carried across the entirety of the indulgent collection, with pieces like the wrap suit (look 22) and dress made from multi-colored silk squares (look 40). 

Buro loves: The multi-tiered skirt made from layers of blue fringe (look 26) moved like water down the runway.

Special note: Assoulin's marbling effect even made it to the grub; the showcase event served guests colourful cakes, crepes and eggs.

The collection: The latest Boss Woman showcase was bittersweet; shortly before the show, artistic director Jason Wu announced that his latest work for the womenswear label would also be his last. Poetically, the clothes reflected the kind of chic minimalism that had come to define Wu during his five years at Hugo Boss — silk shift dresses (looks 6 and 18), structured suits (looks 10 and 11) and pops of color through a cobalt sweater (look 5) or the red lining on a coat (looks 8 and 14) were reminiscent of his best works. His penchant for simplicity did not come without a few daring surprises. We particularly liked the all-white jumpsuit (look 13) that appeared to have been made without a single seam.

Buro loves: Wu reimagines the infinity scarf by applying serious hardware on his. Functional and fashionable, they're cut to look like collars, peeking out of soft knits and sitting atop wool dresses.

Upon closer inspection: In true minimalist form, the only real prints came from a pair of close-toed shoes (look 13) and a leather satchel (looks 1 and 2), both in zebra print.

All coverage from New York Fashion Week fall/winter 2018.

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