Best shows from PMFW SS18: Christian Dada, Cerruti 1881 and Berluti
Will Masanori Morikawa of Christian Dada show 'neck belts' again? How will Haider Ackermann top his last runway collection for Berluti? Listen in as editor-in-chief Norman Tan answers all these questions and more on his audio review, including a backstage chat with Jason Basmajian of Cerruti 1881 about the Miami Vice inspiration for his spring/summer 2018 runway.
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CHRISTIAN DADA: ON THE MONEY
Designer: Masanori Morikawa
All you need to know: A collection full of current and trendy design tropes. Case in point: Belted boiler suits, leather berets, tight tank tops worn with full-cut trousers, and a gorgeous shade of baby blue double-breasted suit cinched at the waist with a black bum bag. But that's not to say Morikawa didn't add his own Dada flavour. In fact, he brought a nihilistic spirit to intricate detailing. I know. It sounds like an oxymoron, but consider this: Two trousers, one red and the other blue, embroidered with heavy beading featuring loose threads; thick canvas denim jackets artfully frayed at the edges; and crocodile skins used as a hybrid belt-cummerbund.
CERRUTI 1881: MIAMI VICE
Designer: Jason Basmajian
All you need to know: Inspired by Miami Vice — Mr Cerruti used to design pieces for the show in 1984 — the runway started with an ensemble featuring a peacock blue long coat and mustard yellow pullover worn with white trousers, anchored with matching white sneakers. Straight off the bat, it was clear that it was going to be a much more relaxed collection compared to last season. In short, it was the fusion of sportswear and tailoring that we've witnessed all around the world from Milan to New York. We saw this in the way the Cerruti typeface was turned into a design element (half-covered by a bold white treatment) on a yellow sweater and then paired with tailored blue trousers; the varsity-style baseball top in a grey-green hue tucked into matching trousers sported an elongated built-in belt, all worn under a chic cream coat; and the application of wide notch-lapels (often found on a blazer) to a an otherwise casual trucker jacket worn over a short-and-shirt set in graphic floral prints.
BERLUTI: MINTED ELEGANCE
Designer: Haider Ackermann
All you need to know: First thoughts? Haider is killing it. Presented on the Left Bank in the courtyard of La Monnaie de Paris (that is, the Paris mint), models traipsed in random fashion — the signature Ackermann way to show the clothes in a real life setting; well, as real life as a fashion show gets — in an array of sumptuous separates that spanned wheat and white to sunshine yellow and midnight black. It was luxury done right, by which I mean done tastefully, with a focus on quality fabrications and detailing rather than ostentatious embellishments. Opening exits of a sleeveless top in washed taupe paired with a matching cashmere sweater tied loosely around the neck — as well as the elegance of a white knit pullover with ivory trousers sporting a single side-stripe — transitioned into ensembles featuring tobacco zip-up blousons insouciantly half-tucked into slim-cut trousers, before the injection of colour by way of a yellow motorcycle jacket and the opulent double-breasted suit in iridescent gold worn sans shirt. Stunning. But the evening really belonged to that great casting of model Stella Tennant (now sporting grey hair) with a male model doppelgänger (also with slightly grey hair), walking side-by-side in matching ensembles of a black leather car coat (with a contrast white under collar) paired effortlessly with a black knit, white trousers, and cream leather slides. Home run.
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