BOTTEGA VENETA: 50th ANNIVERSARY
The collection: It was an emotional start to day four of MFW as the fashion industry laid eyes on Tomas Maier's touching collection for the house's 50th anniversary and his 15th as creative director. Seventy-six looks — beginning with the darkest of hues, progressing into neutrals, peppered with pop colours, and then ending off with the softest of pastel shades — was a spectacle of effortless yet sophisticated pieces. Elevating the simplest of fabrics, quiet luxury was the running thread through the collection, with Maier showcasing a wardrobe of staples such as coats, shirtdresses and knits (for women) and polo shirts and windbreakers (for men). To commemorate the brand's milestone, 15 archival bags have been reissued — each demonstrating the extraordinary skill of the maison's artisans. "This is the 50th anniversary of the brand, and we are celebrating by staying true to the essence of Bottega Veneta," Maier explained.
The venue: Held at the historical Accademia Di Belle Arti Di Brera, the spring/summer 2017 show was staged along the classroom hallways of the university. It was the brand's first combined men's and womenswear runway show, and the first time the creative director showcased his collection outside of the Bottega Veneta headquarters.
Something you might not have known: American actress, Lauren Hutton who was one of the models to walk the runway and closed the show arm in arm with Gigi Hadid, made a special appearance. Why special? Hutton strutted down the runway clutching a re-edition of the famous Bottega Veneta intrecciato red leather bag she carried throughout the iconic 1980 film, American Gigolo.
JIL SANDER: HIGH VOLUME
The collection: One always enters the Jil Sander show knowing what to expect — minimalist silhouettes, linear cuts and a clean palate. This SS17 outing, however, saw volume take centre stage. Was Rodolfo Paglialunga riding the Vetements wave? The influence was obvious from the exaggerated shoulders and leg-of-mutton sleeves on almost everything from blazers to coats and dresses. The only difference between Jil Sander's broad-shouldered looks and Vetement's is the option of removing the shoulder pads when the trend fizzles out, and you can return to wearing what the brand has been known for — restraint and minimalism.
I spy: Supersized bags will be a big accessory trend. We can already hear sighs of relief from women who have struggled the last few seasons to stash their worldly possessions in those mini bags.
Buro loves: That burnt orange leather tunic paired with a collarless white shirt worn by German model Lina Hoss, who's buzz cut and pixie face brings to mind Eleven from Stranger Things.
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See all shows from Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2017.