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Best shows from MMFW FW17 Day 1: Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Neil Barrett, Versace and Moschino

Milan men's fashion week

Best shows from MMFW FW17 Day 1: Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Neil Barrett, Versace and Moschino
Norman Tan reports live from Milan with an audio review of Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Neil Barrett, Versace and Moschino — including a quick chat with Esther Quek, editor-in-chief of Citizen K Middle East

Simply listen to the audio review while scrolling through the slideshow of runway images below for candid coverage, and inside access, of the best shows from day one of Milan men's fashion week fall/winter 2017. Which was your favourite show?

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EMPORIO ARMANI: FASHION GEOGRAPHY
Designer: Giorgio Armani
Synopsis: As we have come to expect from Mr. Armani, it was another procession of soft tailoring in his favourite colour palette of greys, navy and blacks. And this season, a lot of black. Stand outs include Macs and moto jackets kitted out in intarsia fur (think: hunter green, purples and rust), covetable long languid trousers (multi-pleated for extra volume) and blazers embellished with a topographical print. Love.

DOLCE & GABBANA: THE NEW KINGS AND QUEENS  
Designer: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Synopsis: Social media stars ruled the runway. In a brilliant marketing move by Dolce and Gabbana, it was a litany of digital influencers from Cameron Dallas (who opened and closed the show) to the daughters of Sylvester Stallone, Marcel Floruss and Presley Gerber (son of Cindy Crawford who also walked last season). Destined to be one of the most talked about — if not one of the most publicised — shows of the season.

MARNI: UNDONE UTILITY
Designer: Francesco Risso
Synopsis: The familiar style signatures remained — including the belted paper bag trousers and sweaters tucked into bottoms — but everything was a little undone; left deliberately wrinkled and relaxed. Comfortable. New additions? Gorilla-like fur coats and high, almost comical, bouffant fur beanies. Street. Style. Fodder. All in all, a strong debut collection by Risso who has replaced founder Consuelo Castiglioni as creative director after 22 years at the helm.

NEIL BARRETT: HANKERING FOR HYBRIDS
Designer: Neil Barrett
Synopsis: It was all about the cross-breeding of outerwear. Think: Long coats with drop shoulders paired with puffer jackets; denim jackets contrasted with biker silhouettes; and a personal favourite, the mixing of single and double-breasted blazers. With a cavalcade of bold looks in black, ensembles were enlivened with flashes of bright yellow, red and cobalt painted across chests and down trouser legs. On the wish list: That black leather coat with a detachable bottom to transform it into a truncated jacket.

VERSACE: LONG HAIR, DON'T CARE
Designer: Donatella Versace
Synopsis: Sending out models with wet hair slicked forward over the face — long hair, don't care! — wearing athletic parkas and black-and-white hiking boots, the Versace man for fall/winter 2017 is ready for the great outdoors, and a very wet outdoors at that. Look closely and you'll notice that some of the coats had high side-slits under the arm (for greater garment bounce and movement with every dramatic step) and double-breasted trenches were cinched at the waist with a double-wrap around belt. Superb. Now there's a styling tip that I'll be trying straight away.

MOSCHINO: A BUFFALO RENAISSANCE
Designer: Jeremy Scott
Synopsis: A disruptive and, at times, confusing mélange of intergalactic prints with military webbing; renaissance motifs on puffer jackets with berets encrusted with metallic buttons, badges and safety pins; and digital numerical prints sharing the runway with romantic florals. In short, it was experimental fashion (especially given the set of exposed and blinking electrical wires and lights guarded by ushers in white lab suits). In retrospect, it was a modern interpretation of the Buffalo style pioneered by stylist Ray Petri in the 1980s (colourful, chaotic, creative).

SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Check back daily for another personal take on the best men's runway shows from the fall/winter 2017 season.

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See all our coverage of Milan men's fashion week fall/winter 2017.

Norman Tan

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