Best shows from MFW SS18 Day 3: Tod's, Sportmax and Etro
Milan Fashion Week
Tod’s waxes poetic about dusks and dawns, Sportmax lives up to its name, and Etro celebrates its 50th year with jewels
TOD'S: THE GOLDEN HOUR The set: At 9.30am, the fashion pack walked into the cosy Via Palestro to be greeted by MTV style televisions looping hypotonic snippets of movies Tod's consider a representative of the "The Italian Dream" — e.g. Eva Green as the Bond girl in Casino Royale and Gwyneth Paltrow with Jude Law and Matt Damon in The Talented Mr. Ripley.
The collection: Like angels from a contiguous horizon, the Tod's girls descended from a flight of golden stairs to reveal vanilla, ecru, caramel, tan and every other variation of nude on the Pantone, to go hand-in-hand with soft sky blues. The label, embracing its roots, is not shying away from bourgeoisie suggestions in spring/summer 2018. See: Permutations of scarves knotted around the neck, tied across the chest and fastened to secure thong sandals; all designed for bellisima babes on-the-road. It's a Tod's show, so leather was abundant. Contrast piped and sewn with graphic snakeskin patches, their Tod's branded timelessness sealed in details such as laser cut polka dots, suede shorts and hidden buttons à la the '90s.
The accessories: The Wave bag now comes in the backpack style, the Sella bag is lighter than before, and the Gommino bag is proffered in fresh shades for a summer escapade. No matter your choice, wear yours stacked; two crossbodies are better than one today, clutch your mini in front of your oversized satchel tomorrow.
SPORTMAX: #FITINSPO The collection: When someone says athleisure, you think neon, you think sweat suits, and you definitely almost always think sneakers. None of those elements were employed for Sportmax's spring/summer 2018 line-up, yet it's a collection for the sport enthusiast nonetheless. True to the brand's DNA, we were treated to ethereal silk dresses in saccharine pink and mint, blouses with charming puffy sleeves and hibiscus motif jacquard ballet flats — pieces not necessarily associated with the world of sports, but when lined with colourful striped elastic bands, hiked up with nylon belts (an emerging trend at Milan Fashion Week) and worn with jersey hoodies, it's a different story altogether. Other key looks include a blue-collar jumpsuit with white stitching bunched up around the waist for a paper bag effect, and a selection of prissy floral dresses layered under sheer overlay. Clearly, this season's fit bae isn't overt about her hobby — but is there a need to shout on the rooftops when the body conscious jersey dress does the work for you?
Buro loves: The graceful bib-front dress worn with light knit leggings with bands on the side, and the mules with kitten heels.
Try this: Wear your bum bag as a crossbody, strapped close to the chest to guard your heart — and belongings.
ETRO: EASTWARD AND ONWARD The inspiration: On its 50th anniversary, Siblings Veronica and Kean Etro banded together for the first time for a combined women and men's show that was driven by their father and house founder Gerolamo's early explorations in India.
The collection: Etro's South Asian folklore influences were strong from the get-go. Tone-on-tone white long cotton voile dresses lined with delicate lace set the mood, along with ivory silk crêpe embellished dresses with metallic thread and pearls, shimmering with the models' every move. Saturated pigments were injected swiftly thereafter — entire families of orange and green offered in linen and velvet blazers, floral and paisley waistcoats, plus crinkled trousers for men. For women, Etro won in backless kaftans with bell sleeves, toga foulard dresses, and pleated three dimensional origami-like jodhpurs, worn high-waist and belted like a Sumatran sultan. The mock collars for both sexes boasting intricate embroideries also carried elaborate crystal paisley brooches, as if daring you to look away.
Something you might have missed: Guests took home travel size jewel toned pillows made with some of the jacquard fabrics seen on the clothes.