Best shows from MFW SS17 Day 1: Gucci, No. 21 and Roberto Cavalli
Milan Fashion Week
GUCCI: MAGIC LANTERN
The collection: "All the clothes tell a story steeped in wonder phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy," explained Gucci's spring/summer 2017 show note. If you think the Gucci girl and boy can't get anymore eccentric, think again. This season, Alessandro Michele presented a collection that was bigger and bolder — both aesthetically and literally. Signature Gucci floral corsages (looks 27, 38 & 40), headpieces (looks 11, 50 & 57) and the Marmont bag doubled in size, while shoes tripled in height. A beautiful mix of spellbinding sequins, sparkles, shimmer and studs densely decorated skirts and pantsuits (looks 32 & 51), sheer gowns (looks 24 & 31), and not forgetting all those lust-worthy head to toe accessories. This collection also saw another artist collaboration with Californian illustrator, Jayde Fish, who Michele discovered on Instagram. Her sketches inspired by tarot cards were translated onto looks 25 and 73.
The venue: The space at Scalo Farini was covered with over 250,000 mirrored sequins hanging from the ceiling and a carpeted runway featuring the house's web stripe and stars — some called it Gucci's version of a pink disco. This will be the last show at the former railway station. Next season's combined men's and women's show in February will take place at Gucci's new office space, nicknamed the 'Gucci Hub'.
Buro loves: The spiked shoulder harnesses strapped onto intricately embroidered gowns for that touch of punk attitude (looks 17 & 72), and those gym drawstring bags rendered in metallic brocade (looks 6 & 71).
No. 21: TIERS OF TEXTURE
The collection: An unabashed celebration of femininity that saw designer Alessandro Dell'Acqua offering up a cavalcade of whimsical dresses in a muted palette of black and white, but tiered and layered with various textures — think: Macramé lace, luscious silk, tactile tulle, and interestingly, segments of mesh for a tinge of punk. And whilst all-white dressing continues to be a huge trend (already a predominant theme from last season) we found ourselves gravitating towards the exits with shots of mustard (looks 3, 5 and 7), and the closing procession of artful prints mixed-and-clashed with metallic sequins (looks 31, 35 and 36).
Favourite look: The ethereal allure of look 30 with its gold and silver sequinned skirt, overlayed with tulle further sequinned with shooting stars. #Gorg
Are bum-bags back? Dell'Acqua seems to think so, proferring straps for its small clutches-cum-handbags, and then proceeding to style them as a belt around the waist (looks 9, 15 and 25).
ROBERTO CAVALLI: 1970s AMERICANA
The collection: For those hoping for a flighty tiered dress à la that yellow frock from Beyonce's car-window-smashing music video Hold Up, there was a billowing ochre version in look 28 (fitted with a Navajo-inspired beaded chest-plate); but otherwise, it was a collection heavy on separates. An exploration of native American textiles, designer Peter Dundas (aka the king of 1970s louche) sent out models shouldering fringed blankets (looks 1, 32 and 59), sporting striped flares (looks 8, 10 and 13), and rather incongruously, donning military roped jackets (looks 25 and 49).
Try this at home: As with every Dundas collection, there was a lot going on — a kaleidoscope of patchwork print dresses and sexy crop tops, all thrown together with a rakish insouciance. If you're looking for a small piece of that 1970s irreverent luxe, test out the Cavalli waters with one of those long languid scarves. And, as suggested by Dundas, you can wear it with everything.
Something you might have missed: That red leopard print trouser-and-top set in look 48. It was a welcome exotic edge, a hard punch of rock and roll, to a soft and fluid collection.
The best street style from Milan Fashion Week SS17
Best shows from New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
Best shows from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2017
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