Best shows from MFW SS17 Day 2: Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Prada and Moschino
Milan Fashion Week
FENDI: SWEET DREAMS (ARE MADE OF THIS)
The collection: It was a pyjama parade today at the Fendi spring/summer 2017 show — the kind that got you planning your next PJ party with your girlfriends so that you can be decked out in the playful and dreamy collection. Think: Striped silk PJ shirts (looks 3 & 14) for the loungers; broderie anglaise-trimmed night gowns (looks 21, 22 & 23) for the girly girl; and sheer negligees for those who prefer something a little more seductive (looks 35 & 38). Romantic textures and opulent textiles such as cloque jacquards and metallic fil coupé were aplenty. Soft pastel colours were juxtaposed against the house's Pequin and regimental stripes. Each look was completed with glittering lips and candy-shaped studs in the hair — because, as everyone knows, it's not a PJ party without playing dress up.
Buro loves: Everything. But, to be specific, those aprons tied over skirts, trousers and knickers (looks 8, 11, 18, & 34) — a layering trick you'll want to work into your ensemble pronto.
Arm candy: SS17 saw the launch of Fendi's newest bag, Kan I, adorned with candy-coloured studs, embroidery and floral ribbons.
EMILIO PUCCI: BOLD AND BRIGHT
The collection: Massimo Giorgetti continues his re-invigoration of the storied Italian house by presenting the maison's two signatures — graphic patterns and bold colour — as a visual slap-in-your-face concoction of body suits and sexy jersey. In short, we loved it. Sheer bodycon pieces in sunshine yellow brights (looks 1, 8 and 46) held court next to blown up black-and-white graphic prints slathered across coats and wrap dresses (looks 20, 22 and 26) for a confident, and sportswear inflected, wardrobe aimed at the daring fashion lover.
Favourite looks: Undeniably the colour-blocked separates with the maison's iconic squiggle pattern — but blown up for maximum impact — as seen on boob tubes and skirts (looks 31 and 32), as well as structural sports jerseys paired with mini skirts (look 34).
When it came to accessories: Those face covering hats were reminiscent of Erdem's droopy versions presented at London Fashion Week (still not a fan), but those exaggerated fringe clutches in looks 38 and 41 — heaven.
PRADA: LADY OF LEISURE
The collection: Prada certainly ruffled many feathers with its plume-accented collection. Marabou was incorporated onto everything from hemlines to cuffs, with bags and shoes the accent du jour. In this spring outing, sixties mod patterns served up with a side of geekiness and offbeat sensibility (think: Supersized clutches held like document folders, and rubber sandals) reigned supreme, but what stole the show were those Cheongsam pyjama sets elevated with feathered hems (looks 30, 31, 41 and 44).
I spy: Three brands, one reoccurring trend: First Fendi, then Ports 1961 and now Prada. Time to take your silk stripe PJ shirt out for another spin (or now if you're already in bed wearing your jammies). Best worn with pool slides as seen at Prada.
Prada presents: The SS17 collection featured a film installation by director David O. Russell (you may know him American Hustler and Silver Linings Playbook) as part of the runway show. A collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Russell, the short film entitled Past Forward is set to premiere in Los Angeles this November, and will be available for viewing on Prada.com after its debut.
MOSCHINO: PLAYING WITH PAPER DOLLS
The inspiration: The opening look by Gigi Hadid set the foundation. Dressed in a floor-length white dress with a trompe l'oeil image of a life-size naked body (save for black illustrated lingerie), it paved the way for a collection of paper dolls. Each subsequent look came with white 'folding tabs' to be secured over, and thereby dress, the first exit. Jeremy Scott, genius.
Favourite looks: That string of 'This is not a Moschino toy' teddy bears in look 19; that oversized T-shirt printed with the iconic black leather belt dress in look 40; and all the 2D evening gowns that closed the show — especially the dramatic ruffles and bows seen in looks 52, 55, 57 and 60.
Beauty on the runway: A throwback to 1960s Italian glamour with cropped curls, bold brows, and winged eyeliner courtesy of Tom Pecheux. Yes.
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