Best shows from LFWM FW17 Day 3: J.W.Anderson and Christopher Raeburn
London Fashion Week Men's
J.W.ANDERSON: PAGAN KNIGHTS
The collection: The '80s are dwindling down in the house of J.W. as Jonathan Anderson decides to go further into history — the Middle Ages, to be precise. Unlike his peers who took to tougher displays of masculinity this season, Anderson adorned his knights in stained glass-like appliqués (looks 12, 14, 16 & 33), painterly polos (looks 6, 9 & 18), and visually arresting crochet squares (looks 1, 4, 5, 9, 19, 26, 30, 32 & 38). Patches seem to be here to stay, too (looks 2, 12, 15, 22, 24, 25, 27 & 36), with them amply punctuating the lineup — tempting us to DIY our wardrobes, stat.
Worth the investment: That contrast sleeve leather-knit bomber is to die for (look 37) — it's even got you covered if you ever crave a good colour block. The perfect balance of tough and cosy, this is a piece you'll find yourself constantly gravitating towards.
Try this now: Stack three neckerchiefs of varying hues (look 17) for some off-beat panache. Besides, what better way to showcase your stash?
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN: CAMO CHAMELEON
The inspiration: American soldier-artist Ellsworth Kelly's Ghost Army, a trick tactic from the Second World War that involved dummy military gear like inflatable tanks, trucks, and even fake clotheslines. Deceptive, humorous, and perhaps puzzling, Raeburn wanted to channel this very playfulness in his FW17 instalment.
The collection: It was all about witty deception at the Christopher Raeburn show, complete with a chameleon motif making cameos throughout the collection. Staying true to their commitment to sustainability, every garment was either ethically sourced or recycled. Case in point: Outerwear pieces were bomb disposal uniforms, blankets, and camouflage jackets in their former lives — making this collection a literal resurrection at work. Camo was rendered in its antithetical counterpart — neon (looks 16 & 18), while knitwear took on a patchwork treatment (looks 17 & 19). Opting for the sturdiest of textiles, parachute material was crafted into khaki parkas (looks 1 & 6) and semi-sheer windbreakers (looks 8 & 11). If there's one thing we took away from this statement collection, it's the resilient potential of sustainable fashion.
Something you might have missed: This season marks the launch of a new collaboration with Eastpak, featuring a three-piece capsule collection. Made to the highest of standards, each design has been limited to only 100 pieces.
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