Best shows from LFWM FW17 Day 2: E.Tautz, Matthew Miller and Casely-Hayford
London Fashion Week Men's
E. TAUTZ: RUSTIC WHIMSY
The inspiration: British photographer Peter Mitchell's latest work, Some Thing Means Everything for Somebody, an eccentric photo autobiography told through the perspective of scarecrows.
The collection: Trust Patrick Grant to marry the pastoral charm of the English countryside with the urban sensibilities of the modern man. A rakish lineup of crisp gingham (looks 1 & 4), sturdy tweed (looks 2, 3 & 12), and nonchalantly fit anoraks (looks 7, 8, 10, 14 & 20) made a strong case for smasual (AKA smart-casual) dressing. The colour scheme was undeniably enticing, too — with understated shades of mustard, navy, olive, and khaki (looks 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 14, 17, 18 & 20) dominating the ensemble. In short, this was Oliver Twist meets Savile Row. While the collection harked back to simpler times of provincial life, Grant proved that there is nothing humdrum about country clothes.
Worth the investment: A trusty navy parka (look 8) for a fresh spin on your monochrome outerwear. If your resolution for 2017 was to start wearing colour, navy is a non-intimidating gateway.
MATTHEW MILLER: HEAVY-DUTY EDGE
The collection: Arguably known for his anti-establishment approach, Matthew Miller was decidedly toned down this season. Occasional pops of prints and colour were manifested in the form of graphic scarves (looks 2, 6, 8, 9, 11 & 14), while the rest of the collection remained firmly monochrome. Heavy outerwear such as padded bombers (looks 2 & 21) and biker jackets (looks 17 & 19) were seen alongside even tougher harness-like accessories (looks 3, 10 & 20).
I spy: A growing utilitarian trend this season. First, it was the armour-like vests at Craig Green; now, Miller is serving up harnesses that come fully equipped with buckles and carabiners.
Buro loves: Those thick industrial hoodie straps (looks 7, 8, 16 & 18). An athletic take on the usual drawstring, the choice of material makes for an interesting fusion of technical sportswear and casual streetwear.
CASELY-HAYFORD: OPTIC ANTICS
The collection: A ragtag of textures and prints, the lineup ran the gamut of exposed threads in the form of polka dots (looks 5, 9, 12, 20 & 23) to the loudest of stripes (looks 4, 19 & 22). An unsung feature that caught our eye? Those roll-down, zip-up collars (looks 3, 11 & 21) that, on a functional level, double as neckwarmers. Indigo puffer parkas were updated with phosphene-like graphics (looks 1 & 3), bringing a whole new attitude to outerwear. If there's one thing this collection urged us to do, it's to zhoosh up our mix-and-match game.
Something you might have missed: This was father and son duo Joe and Charlie Casely-Hayford's venture into a full-fledged womenswear line — an expansion of last season's taster.
Try this now: If you're headed somewhere sub-zero this season, throw on an oversized parka over your maxi pea coat (look 1) for some extra warmth and, style points.
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Check out our full coverage of LFWM FW17.
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