Best shows from PFW FW17 Day 1: Jacquemus and Saint Laurent
Paris fashion week kicks off with showers and a chilly breeze — let's hope this is not a sign of things to come. Bracing the cold is editor-in-chief Norman Tan who will be reporting on-the-go throughout fashion week with his unique audio reviews — favourite looks, initial thoughts, and random observations — from the runways and beyond. Have a listen, tune in daily, and you'll be worded up on insider fashion tips to impress your mates.
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JACQUEMUS: A MODERN FLYING NUN
Designer: Simon Porte Jacquemus
Synopsis: Jacquemus has a knack for taking rudimentary shapes — circles, squares and triangles — and making them appear fresh and contemporary through his unique play on proportions. For fall/winter 2017, he continues to offer some crazy but covetable footwear; sending out leather strap platforms anchored in exaggerated spherical and square blocks, colour-blocked to make them appear like modern sculptures. And that's the appeal, isn't it? His work, whether on garments or accessories, is modern art. And on a pink runway in the Paris Event Centre (all the way out in the 19th arrondissement), his fashionable art came in the form of drop waists on dresses; accentuated drop shoulders on coats and tops (including a gorgeous over-shirt in blush pink with blown-up collars and cuffs); and obscure head gear by way of bucket hats, pirate hats, and winged head pieces that reminded me of Sally Field in The Flying Nun (remember that show?).
SAINT LAURENT: ALL GLITTER, NO FILLER
Designer: Anthony Vaccarello
Synopsis: The show venue was the expansive courtyard in the Ministry of Defense located on the Left Bank; the show guests seated on a tiered square pyramid barely sheltered from the wintry evening drizzle under an overarching shard of glass. Overheard from the front-row: "Why are they holding the show outside? It's wet and freezing!" But if the guests were shivering, have a thought for the models. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello remained true to his provocatively feminine design aesthetic, sending out girls in short asymmetric dresses ruched at the shoulder (including one in burnt sienna with one arm sporting a long shearling-lined glove that looked like it was stolen from the set of Mad Max: Fury Road) and bell-sleeve tops with revealing deep-V necklines (many not covering the chest; clearly Vaccarello is all for freeing the nipple). Showstoppers? Those super badass ruched leather knee-high boots — they anchored a majority of looks — and the procession of sequin and diamanté encrusted shifts, skirts and party frocks. All glitter, no filler.
SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Stay tuned, and come back daily, as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go audio reviews of the best shows from Paris fashion week for the fall/winter 2017 season.
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Special thanks to GlocalMe for their U2 portable wifi device that has made reporting live from Paris fashion week — from Instagram Stories to filing these audio reviews on-the-go — super convenient.
See all our coverage of Paris fashion week fall/winter 2017.
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