Best shows from PFW FW17 Day 3: Chloé, Alexis Mabille and Isabel Marant
On day three of #PFW, it was blue skies and sunshine — a welcome reprieve from all that rain which recently plagued Paris. Highlights from the day include Clare Waight Keller's final collection for Chloé; Alexis Mabille's penchant for all things golden; and Isabel Marant teaching us all how to rock on. Listen in as Norman Tan shares his insights — and provides an audio sample of his favourite runway tracks — in his latest audio review of the Paris shows.
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CHLOÉ: SWAN SONG
Designer: Clare Waight Keller
Synopsis: They say that all good things must come to an end, so it's with a nostalgic heart that we bid farewell to Clare Waight Keller after six years at the creative helm of Chloé. Showcasing an 80s inspired collection for her swan song, Keller sent out boxy over-shirts in brushed check wool and leather tracksuits in tobacco, alongside feminine short dresses blooming with organza puff sleeves and sheer frocks in star-spangled tulle. Played out to a feel good and top-tapping 80s soundtrack that included the Don't' You Want Me by The Human League (I'm still humming to the song as I type this!), it was a collection for the Chloé girl with edge. Favourite ensembles were the butterfly-wing collared shirts tucked into matching low-slung pleated trousers, held up with a black leather belt — sartorial and yet oh-so-cool.
ALEXIS MABILLE: WE ARE GOLDEN
Designer: Alexis Mabille
Synopsis: Spot the trend: Two female singers dressed in gold leotards; gold gowns; gold dove necklaces; gold embroidery on sweaters; and gold leather knee-high boots anchoring the lion's share of exits. That's right, if you have a thing for the Midas touch, then this collection is for you. However, the leitmotif I was most intrigued by was the use of large bows knotted on the front of skirts — like a sweater tied around the waist, but lower down on the hip — and, in fact, the golden strapless gown in the 'evening' section of the collection was accessorised with a black sweater cinched at the waist. An interesting high-low styling proposition.
ISABEL MARANT: ROCK'N'ROLL CHIC(K)
Designer: Isabel Marant
Synopsis: First thought after the show: "Is this the more wearable and feminine version of Saint Laurent?" By no means is this meant to be negative comment; in fact, I loved the collection. Marched out to a rock heavy playlist that included Blur's Woo Hoo, it was hard to capture all the looks that I wanted on Instagram Stories as the girls sped past in belted floral dresses (frills galore and some detailed with micro plissé) over ruched leather thigh-high boots; asymmetric party frocks; and a closing stampede of diamanté encrusted ensembles. Sound familiar? But unlike Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Marant brings a deft feminine touch. Case in point: That super chic high-waisted jeans (belted to highlight the silhouette) worn with a truncated and super colourful geometric knit sweater on Yasmin Wijnaldum. Love.
SEE YOU TOMORROW:
Stay tuned, and come back daily, as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go audio reviews of the best shows from Paris Fashion Week for the fall/winter 2017 season.
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