Best shows from MFW FW17 Day 5: Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, MSGM and Salvatore Ferragamo
On the fifth day of Milan fashion week, Marni sent out protective bubble wrap dresses, Dolce & Gabbana enlisted social media stars, MSGM continued to push luxe athleisure, and Fulvio Rigoni unveiled his debut collection for Salvatore Ferragamo. Listen in to Norman Tan's audio review — whilst scrolling through the runway images below — to stay up-to-date with what's hot in Milano.
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MARNI: ECLECTIC BEINGS
Designer: Francesco Risso
Synopsis: Some designers are content with making beautiful things, and then there are some designers that love creating gorgeous clothes driven by meaning. Francesco Risso is the latter. His esoteric show notes attempted to communicate his mindset: "A being caught in the act of creating her own reality; a being caught exploring multiplicity... making, doing, mending, collaging, clashing, merging, morphing, to infinity and back. Beings, being themselves." Subsequently, he showcased an eclectic collection that ranged from quilted coats and oversized teddy furs in pastel yellows and pinks, to bubble wrap column dresses embellished with sequins. Bubble wrap? Yes, bubble wrap. And we should have known, given that our seats were made of the same material. What's the message from Risso? That we need protection from society? But we should still shine bright and express ourselves? Prescient. Whichever way you look at it, his debut collection for Marni serves as a fascinating (and beautiful) platform for discussion.
DOLCE & GABBANA: SPACEMEN AND #DGMILLIENIALS
Designer: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana
Synopsis: Besides the space themed backdrop and the leopard print runway, the fall/winter 2017 womenswear show was very similar to the men's outing just a month prior. Modeled by a litany of today's top digital influencers, singer Austin Mahone was again invited to perform on the runway as the who's who of social media — think: Negin Mirsalehi, Lady Kitty Spencer, Caroline Daur, Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis, Madison Beer, Oliver Cheshire and Pixie Lott, as well as Sylvester Stallone's daughters — strutted out in decadent gowns and coats adorned with rose appliqué, cascading bows, and sequins. But unlike the men's show, Domenico and Stefano also invited Italian society ladies and personalities (together with their adorable children) to walk the runway — lending the show extra gravitas and authenticity. Why? Because these are the women that actually buy Dolce & Gabbana. And the crowd lapped it up, cheering them on as they walked alongside a fur coat designed to look like a polar bear; a black dress printed with spacemen; and headbands emblazoned with the words 'PRINCESS' and '#DGMILLENIALS'.
MSGM: LUXE ATHLEISURE
Designer: Massimo Giorgetti
Synopsis: Silk head scarves worn with black caps sporting an oversized 'M' logo. Straight shift dresses printed with a silhouette of a nocturnal forest. Yeti-like fur coats in neon yellow. Tracksuits and denims with 'MSGM' type running down the side of the sleeves and pant legs. It might sound schizophrenic, but it is exactly at this intersection of athleisure and luxury where Massimo shines brightest. He is able to bring together seemingly discordant design tropes — and still make it work — because MSGM has crafted an aesthetic imbued with attitude; making it acceptable on the street as well as in a palazzo. In particular, I loved the ankle boots in black-and-white racing checks (a nod to his menswear collection that was heavily inspired by the race track) and the closing smock dress-tops with ruffled hems and sleeves in green, blue and blush pink.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO: NECK IT
Designer: Fulvio Rigoni
Synopsis: New creative director Fulvio Rigoni presented a debut collection for Salvatore Ferragamo that emphasised the neck. Playing with proportions, he sent out high standing collars on fur jackets and quilted coats that framed the face (almost like Elizabethan ruff collars); a knit dress with a sweater-shaped cape attached at the neck (which doubled as a scarf); coats with amorphous fur collars (including a stunning option in bright orange); as well as a long coat with a woolen jacket left dangling from the collar (in a curious Frankenstein-esque hybrid of two garments). After something more sedate? Try the sleeveless column dresses in leopard and tiger prints accessorized with long leather gloves. Pro tip: We're seeing a lot of quilted coats on the runways — Marni, Jil Sander and now Salvatore Ferragamo — so if you're heading into cold terrain, invest in one now to stay devastatingly trendy and toasty.
TUNE IN TOMORROW:
Check back tomorrow as Norman Tan continues his on-the-go live reporting from Milan fashion week for the women's fall/winter 2017 season.
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