Best shows from LFW SS17 Day 4: Roksanda, Erdem and Christopher Kane
London Fashion Week
ROKSANDA: FUN IN THE SUN
Synopsis: An ode to the playful fivolity of summer via colour-blocked brights and free-flowing dresses by British designer Roksanda Ilincic.
Favourite looks: Those billowing maxi coats presented in rich terracotta, metallic bronze, and deep navy (looks 1, 12 and 21); the judicious use of sunshine yellow as a peek-a-boo layer in look 2, to accentuate the languid curve of a swan's neck on a print dress in look 14, and as a geometric accent on a diaphanous racer-back shift in look 18; and pleats please — those shimmering exits with vertiginous creases in looks 7 and 9.
Showstoppers: But it was Ilancic's feathered finale that had everyone nodding in unison — looks 32 and 34 had ostrich feathers in either black or white appliqued to sheer gowns for some serious drama. Gorgeous.
ERDEM: ALL TIED UP
The inspiration: Wardrobe of Jean Ker, the Countess of Roxburghe that went down with her ship in 1642 on the way to Netherlands.
The collection: Full-length precious frocks in broderie anglaise and flighty florals (favourites include looks 13, 33 and 38), contrasted with tailored jackets all tied up with black grosgrain ribbon (looks 1 and 2) which were inspired by designer Erdem Moralioglu's visit to the Fashion Museum in Bath. But those droopy wide-brim hats? Too shady for our liking.
On the wish-list: Those surprisingly modern (given the 17th century inspiration) striped dresses in looks 19 and 20 finessed with ruffles and gathered pleats. Perfect for Sunday brunch on our sunny isle.
CHRISTOPHER KANE: FUR AND FRENZY
The inspiration: Entitled, 'Made Do and Mend', the collection was Kane's discourse on the entrepreneurial woman of the 1940s — battled by the shortages of war, they would patch and repair their clothing to make them last longer.
The collection: A rather quixotic clash of fur coats and skirts (looks 1 and 3) with the frenzied pastiche of multi-coloured string dresses sewn on tulle (looks 5 and 7) contrasted against exotic leopard prints slathered on skirts (looks 8 and 9) and, conjuring up memories of a not so distant Burberry, offered as rainwear by way of a latex Mac (look 10). Standouts? That digital print duster coat in look 15; the louche pairing of a black sweater with a feminine white chiffon skirt in look 23; and the panelled black shift (held together with metal rings) in look 33 for Kane's signature undone-punk aesthetic.
Let's talk about the footwear: No, your eyes don't deceive you. Yes, Christopher Kane collaborated with Crocs this season to send out models in rehashed versions of the plastic stomper. Trust Kane to present what many consider the antithesis of fashion (guilty!) into a fashion item. We're not convinced.
Related story: The best street style from London Fashion Week SS17
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See all shows from London Fashion Week spring/summer 2017.
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